Millercarbon's Mega Vibration Control Journey
have an idea that can be DIY that you may like? And you could paint to match the cabinets. You have a PM mate <<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'm all ears.. LOL, and out of gas. Man oh man, I get tired easy.. Winter is gonna be here in an instant.. I'm moving all the outside stuff inside.. PM me, I want to share the vibration stuff, and not clog MC thread up with the other, kinda tough.. I'm gonna try though.. I've set up a pit.. for the MB columns. Adjustable dampening for Hydraulics is another option. Rexroth make a wonderful 12-24 vdc unit, fully adjustable a and b circuits... for loads from 50lb to 5000lb, shock ratings are VERY quick... As fast as a hammer strike... https://www.boschrexroth.com/en/us/products/product-groups/mobile-hydraulics/topics/accumulators/ind... look about mid page, THAT is a bidirectional with neutral hydraulic A/B dampening circuit. Elect over Hydraulic... Add shocks and a henge, almost perfect in design.. 100% dampening adjustments for every weight and speed.. THEN springs would be easier to implement, if at all, compare air ride to spring over... USE BOTH, the best of old and new. Cantilever..??? That could handle 2 -10 pieces (circuits) for around 1500.00 for 4 speakers and at least one HEAVY Equipment rack.... gears are grinding for sure. 400 lb speakers and 500-1000 lb for the TT and gear rack.. Regards.. |
If you just want to fill, mix sand with mineral oil, not much just enough to get good and damp so it packs better. Then mix with lead shot and fill your legs. But those legs are stubby, doubt this will do much. I have a much better idea but need to know: Are the stands and speakers two separate things or all fastened together? |
Yup they are attached via screws, BUT not glue. I can add between the two. I was looking for a finer furniture look though. I was thinking O-Rings between the two, maybe more than one grove, more than one ring.. I just started sound testing. I was surprised.. Those legs and MDF are pretty good. The Hardwood TT plinth, though.. MERCY. The oak is so cured and HARD. Pretty noisy.. It took all summer to get the corner seams to settle. They were glued, a blocks added, drilled, clamped and THEN screwed. I almost had to thread the holes.. that was some HARD wood. Black Oak block and resin. Red oak shins... Stair flats 3 years cured... 1" thick.. Rubber line? What is the name of that sh$t, that you paint on the inside of speaker cabinets... Ceramic paint? Can’t remember... BOTH. Paint and rubber, or silicone paint? Is there such a thing? THE cost... What about that spray stuff for fixing leaking gutters, or holes in boats... That stuff... Gotta be silicone. Chicken feedin’ time... Regards. |
Great, what I was hoping. So here's my idea: springs between the speakers and the stands. Don't run! Do it like I'm gonna say and they will look almost exactly the way they do now, BUT they will sound a lot better and no more problems with the stands. First get one set of Nobsound springs for every TWO speakers you want to do. One set will do 8 corners. You can do other springs but that will mean a lot more work for hardly any money saved. Cut holes in the stands at the corners where the speakers will go. Hole saw or router. If the stands are as thick as they look you can router them out deep enough and just drop the Nobsound springs in. You will have to experiment to find the right number of springs. Then cut the hole depth just right and the speakers will float on springs with only a barely visible space just above the stands. You do not need a lot of space since the springs only move microscopically when playing music. It will just take a bit of trial and error to get them level at the right height. The springs will pretty much take the stands out of the equation, especially if you put some furniture felt stick-on thingies under their feet. With those speakers you will probably only need 3 or 4 springs per corner, meaning one set of Nobsound will do 8 corners. The springs fit snug into a 1/4" hole. Could hardly be sweeter. |
