Logical upgrades to a DD turntable.

If you know how to solder and have even an elementary understanding of electronics , there are a few things you can do like improving the wiring and improving the quality of the RCA jacks, etc. But if you are willing to spend some bigger money, the giant leap would be to buy a new turntable in the 1200 G series. Although they look like your turntable, the 1200 G series turntables are in every way superior.

In fairness, I forgot to mention also that the company KAB sell a number of add-ons that also improve the 1200 series turntables. But none of these devices, although effective, can turn a 1200 into a 1200 G series. If your budget doesNot permit buying an entirely new turntable, you ought to check out the KAB website.

You have to change a cartridge first of all, m44-7 is extremely high output MM with Bonded Conical tip! The key of this DJ cart is high output and durability, but not sound quality. 
Get yourself a proper Hi-Fi cartridge with advanced stylus (nude diamond, not bonded). If you want brand new then look for Audio-Technica with MicroLine stylus. 
You have to start from the cartridge, it will be the most noticeable upgrade, after that you will have to rewire your tonearm with Cardas or Discovery (flexible internal wires) and external shielded phono RCA cable. 

+1 from chakster and also the Audio-Technica with MicroLine stylus. The stock arm & Headshell would prefer a lighter tracking version while heavier headshells would open you up to the 2gm+ VTF versions (6 one way & half a dozen the other). On 2nd thought, the stock tonearm would gain a more useful VTA range if the new cartridge incorporates around a 3mm spacer on top under the headshell. From what I recall, the stock arm really doesn't go low enough for neutral VTA and any mat over 5mm thickness makes the record spindle disappear. Better headshell wires such as the Audio Technica AT6101 from LP Gear and replacing the stock RCA cables with some twin leads made from Mogami W2549 might be easy to attempt. KAB has many good mods such as tonearm rewire kits if you want to keep the stock arm, Strobe defeat to reduce motor noise, sorbothane type footer boots for even more mechanical isolation as well as an outstanding outboard power supply (prefer the switched mode PSU version) that bypasses the internal transformer while providing an upgraded regulator at the motor. These 'tables can really work if you put in a little effort. Bearing, platter and mat upgrades are also possible, with much gain to be had with minimal reworking of stock parts.