Purifi Class D: Junk?

Thank you for the information. I actually had a Freya lying around that has 75 Ohms on the SE output. I tried it out and I really didn’t notice a difference...noisy, more blurred, but that’s the Freya’s fault. In terms of dynamics I didn’t really notice any difference.

So how long does it take for burning in?

It’s plugged in to a Furutech outlet using a LessLoss level 1 cable (the older version, not the C-Marc) and LessLoss firewall. Pre and DAC are on the same outlet going through a balanced isolation transformer from AliExpress. There shouldn’t be any current-limiting effects going on. The Stratos doesn’t have this problem.

I actually have two Stratos amps. The first is an upgraded Stratos with the extra caps. The second is an early model back when they were ODL. Same circuit but the newer one has an encapsulated toroidal, custom Odyssey caps and different PCB and I think different wires. I broke it and have been trying to fix it, so far without much luck. While I was trying to fix it I got the used ODL as a filler. Frankly, the ODL sounds significantly worse -- not terrible, but definitely a step down from the newer / upgraded Stratos. After day 1 of the VTV, it actually sounds a lot like the ODL, except more congested. That is surprising to me. If nothing else I would have expected super high class D damping power to have an obvious effect. The higher current should have had a more obvious effect...unless real-world current delivery under load isn’t good. I do understand that it needs to burn in, but this result is different compared my expectations built from experiences with other class D. It certainly sounds like trash compared to a NC1200-based amp I heard at AXPONA(?) a few years back.

There is nothing as simple as you state.  I can make the amp you have jump at you like lightning.  Even the AC filter on the VTV is limiting the current and transparency.  It is only rated at 10amps.....the fuse in the power supply is 12 amps......limitations.  The power switch kills the sound.  I mount a cryoed demagnetized Furutech inlet and hardwire super wire directlly to the power supply pins.....with audiophile fuse in between and remove the stock fuse on the switching supply......Just with these mods you will hear more dynamics and slam and transparency throughout the spectrum.  Any single thing can limit the sound.

I can make the amp you have jump at you like lightning.
Even the AC filter on the VTV is limiting the current ??
The power switch kills the sound. ??
the fuse in the power supply is 12 amps??  
I mount a cryoed demagnetized Furutech inlet??  
with audiophile fuse in between ??

This is sounding like snake oil to me.

No doubt, to those that do not listen.  Those that listen with an open mind....they actually experience something......so they really KNOW.  

Most high end audio is the blind (or deaf....he he) leading the blind.  What I mean by this is practically no one actually does listening tests at the micro level.  Most just A/B components and make generalizations and guesses.  In drag racing there is only 5 things that matter.....horsepower, weight, drag, traction and gearing.  And these things can be all measured.  In high end audio there are an infinite number of things that change the sound that cannot be measured.  Unless you actually A/B wire.......you cannot know about wire.....unless you actually A/B removing a non needed AC filter and replacing it with a great sounding AC inlet then you do not know what it does......on and on....into infinity.  The switching power supply that in the VTV and a lot of other Ncore and Purifi based amp has two poles of AC filtering built in......why would you want to add smaller inductors before this and encase them in a STEEL case?  You already have some good filtering.  More is not better unless it is done at a super level.  Have you ever removed a power switch from a power amp and listened?  In the VTV the switch is a two pole.....so there is a switch on the hot and neutral......Have you ever tried a super fuse?  If you have not you know nothing about the sound of fuses.....on and on.  This game is not simple.  Every single thing you do makes a sonic difference.  I have been tweaking since 1976......I first removed fuses from the original Theta DAC back in the late 80s and heard how bad the fuses were.  This is not new information.  Most reading this have no idea what I am talking about because they have never done these kinds of tests.  Only about 5% of audiophiles are DIY people and out of those maybe 5% of those really do serious listening tests.....So, we are talking about a very, very small percentage of people that do serious micro stuff listening tests.  Back in the 50s and 60s the audio game was way more DIY oriented.  You could go into any "hifi shop" and buy individual speaker drivers, xover parts, tuner parts, kits of preamps and amps from various manufacturers, etc.  Today......very few have any idea how anything works.....just plug and play.  This is why the game is so complicated because there are no rules.....it is just every man for himself and there is no consensus on practically anything.   If you look at dragsters....they all look like the same person made them all.....because the dragster people all KNOW what works....and they mostly agree.  High end audio is just the opposite.  However, if you are smart and read a lot you can find gear for very little that will blow your mind and make you cry and feel the love and joy of life tingling in every cell of your body.

No doubt, to those that do not listen. Those that listen with an open mind....they actually experience something......so they really KNOW.

This is something a fuser would say when taken to task. 🤦‍♂️