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I'm pretty excited about my new room i'm building

I am fortunate enough to be getting kicked out of my dedicated audio space 12’x16’x9’ to make space for the kids to have separate rooms .I am remodeling a stand alone building on my property.The dimensions are 16’x24’x9’ with 10"thick cement floor.I am open to either treating and painting the floor or a floating pergo style floor ( no carpet ) with floor rugs .the walls are drywalled 2x6 construction insulated with redwood board and batten exterior, above the ceiling is insulation with open attic area(which I could add more insulation). As a few of you know I am fully off grid and generate my own power thru solar and gen backup into large battery banks then inverted to my house etc.The only furniture per say will be three reclining chairs etc .I will transfer a lot of my treatment panels and add more as needed. Also I will be trying to set up a humidity and temp control for this room when not in it, I was thinking 60deg 60% humidity .thoughts?
Any tips or thoughts are appreciated .
Thank Ray

I still will have my home theatre setup which is pretty nice in the house also so i’m stoked .
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jakesnak
176 posts
 
Open cell foam spray with styrofoam sheeting...
georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 


It would be pretty shabby construction if the screwed in dry wall were pushed away from the studs by too much insolation
You obviously have never put up Gyprock (Drywall) in your life.
It’s not that the screws or nails pull from out from the wooden or steel stud and noggin framework.
It’s that the head of the screw pulls though the Gyprock (drywall) it’s self when under too much pressure, especially on high humidity days as the outer paper coating softens, it’s just made from paper and powered gypsum, and has no strength itself.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/finehomebuilding.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2020/04/24125114/END-VIEW-...

If I were to do a room from scratch, 2x6
Do that and you may have to re-do the whole lot sooner than you think, this time with 2 x 4" R4 batts in the 4" sometimes 3" wide cavities.

I would shoot liquid foam insolation into my walls and fill every nook and cranny!
The batts fill every nook and cranny also, and has resistive push against the back of the drywall, foam does not it just sits there, with no resistive spring/push behind it.

Cheers George
jakesnak
176 posts
 
Thank You for the construction tip George. I would have never thought that it was the head of the screw coming through the drywall! Forgive my wording! George you are wrapped far too tight! 
georgehifi's avatar
georgehifi
10,312 posts
 
George you are wrapped far too tight!
No! just have to correct things other may do and pay the price for later on.

Cheers George
mike_in_nc
1,158 posts
 
I'm encouraged that you aren't planning to put impervious flooring on the slab of your room. Not doing that, you have dodged a bullet IMO.
Regarding paint, many products claim to "seal" concrete with epoxy or paint. I would not use them, because it is so difficult to effectively "seal" concrete or brick against water and water vapor. Maybe you will have more luck than most. We tried sealants on exterior brick in NC and gave up. Our concrete slab here is painted with latex concrete paint and is peeling.

You can apply a densifier to concrete, which slows down moisture penetration and cuts down dust. There are special paints meant for concrete, based on ancient formulas that bond with the minerals. Here is one of them: https://www.greenbuildingsupply.com/All-Products/Paints-Coatings-Paints-Primers/Silacote-Paint

Maybe look at this guy's website: https://lgmandassociates.com/  He is a specialist whose advice was invaluable to us when we were trying to fix our bad flooring. He's got some good articles on the Web site.

I am not trying to be a buzz-kill! But we went through months of trouble and high expenses because of bad choices we didn't even know we were making. Knowledge is power.
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