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"Musical" subwoofers? Advice please on comparing JL subs

I'm ready to be taught and I'm ready to be schooled. I've never owned a subwoofer and I'm not so hot with the physics of acoustics. I've had my eye on two 10" JL Audio subwoofers, the e110 ($1600) and the f110v2 ($3500). I hope this is a simple question: will the f110v2 be more "musical" than the e110?

Perhaps unnecessary details: I'm leaning into small bookshelf speakers, mini monitors with limited bass, for near-field listening in a small room. I don't want to rock the casbah and rattle the windows; I want to enhance the frequency range from roughly 28hZ to perhaps 90 or 100hZ: the lower notes of the piano, cello, bassoon, double bass, etc. I think I'm asking: will one of those subwoofers produce a more "musical" timbre in that range? Is spending the extra $2000 worth it in terms of acoustic warmth and pleasure? More generally, are some subs more musical than others? Or is that range just too low for the human ear to discern critically? 

I know there are a lot of variables and perhaps my question can't be answered in isolation. If it helps, let's put to the side topics such as room treatments, DSP and DARO, debates about multiple subs, debates about using subwoofers at all, and the difficulties of integration. Let's assume a fast main speaker with limited bass. I'm not going to put a 12" sub in the room. While I'm not going to put four subs in the small room, I would strongly consider putting in two, and it would of course be much more economical to put in two e110s. This, though, would only lead to the same question now doubled: would two f110v2 subs sound more musical than two e110s? Also, I'm sure there are other fine subs out there but I'm not looking for recommendations; if it helps to extrapolate, consider the REL S/510 and T/5i. 

I realize that I may be wildly off with all this, and I know that the best way to find out is to try them out. I'm not at that point yet. I'm simply curious about the "musicality" of different subwoofers. 
northman
tuberculin
86 posts
 
@slimpickins5  I don't doubt that there are some very expensive Class D amps that will sound great. They are way out of my budget, mostly for the 5% who make too much money. There are some modestly priced units that sell within my budget, but until recently they weren't very good.

The PS audio product reviewed in Stereophile December 2020 issue are probably good sounding. Especially in the bottom.

They are still PCM or PWM. Pulse Code Modulation or Pulse Width Modulation are sampling techniques that quantify analogue into pulses or bits. Bits are bits. Bits are digital.You can turn a square wave (bits) into a sine wave with filters, the same basic technique used in Class D or PWM amps. I prefer the purity of an analogue signal from start to finish, vinyl to speaker cone.
Also, they use chips to do the work. That's solid state. I choose analogue and tubes.

slimpikins5's avatar
slimpikins5
191 posts
 
Well I don't think that you can compare modulation states as bits 1 and 0.  
They are not computer code.  So I don't see the comparison.  Its just a difference in when the solid state device is firing or operational as in using current and making heat.  It is how the analog signal is amplified.  Analog in, analog out.  My vinyl goes in in pure analog state and comes out the same way.   Trust me, it just sounds much more articulate, defined and full with high dynamic range vs. my Class A amp.  Its much better in my opinion.   And I am not degrading the devices with excessive heat or worse yet degrading tubes which really don't do well with heat and other degradation with age, loss of vacuum, etc.   I think that Widows 10 is far better than Windows 95. 
slimpikins5's avatar
slimpikins5
191 posts
 
Tubeculin,  I don't know what you consider 5% breadwinner prices for gear is, perhaps a Bryston 28B3 pair of monos?   $30K...?   But if $7K is in your budget, you should play with a pair of the Anthem M1 monoblocks.    I think that is the bargain of the new century.   Very affordable for high end, well designed gear and if you can find a used pair like I did, even better (but good luck finding any, they almost never come up for sale).   And if you were not pleased with them after finding them at a good used price, you'd be able to resell and get all of your money back, maybe more.
tuberculin
86 posts
 
Slim, Yeah, I’m not able to pay new car prices for amps. My whole system was the cost of a decent sedan, lock, stock and barrel. I’m more budget/value based. These are in my range. But, I’m not in the equipment revolving door game. It took a few iterations to get where I am and I’m staying. I’m in this for the music, not the joy of playing with new toys every few months.

However, Stereophile was not terribly complementary of the M1s they tested (two sets) although their measurements confirmed the marketing hype. Anthem uses PWM.

The bottom line was that the reviewer would not recommend them, yet. The reviewer did expect the flaws found would be corrected with further voicing perhaps over time. Also, I notice there are a lot of digital components in the circuit (not signal path) that have the potential to add digital noise. I think in a home theater setting they would do well (these amps are out of my price range for TV audio as well). And, they use a PCB not P2P wiring. So overall I probably wouldn’t audition them if I were into an equipment change.

I hope that you continue to enjoy yours. I’m glad they sound so good to you.
tuberculin
86 posts
 
FYI: How a Class D "Digital" Amplifier Works

https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/class-d-digital-amplifier

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