"Musical" subwoofers? Advice please on comparing JL subs

FYI: How a Class D "Digital" Amplifier Works

https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/class-d-digital-amplifier

Tuberculin,
This might be a better read to explain Class D vs. Class A or A/b
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class-D_amplifier

You can read how Class D is not a ’digital’ amplifier. It’s simply a full on or full off output device vs. a full on all the time device. Theoretically it can achieve 100 percent efficiency, but with the available devices it is not that high obviously, more like 90 plus percent. Class A amps have a theoretical efficiency top of 50% and as the article states often they don’t even hit 20%. But Class A amps make for fabulous winter time axillary home heaters or summer time A/C test appliances. Class D amplifiers using sophisticated feedback design and equally sophisticated power supply design not only deliver incredibly high output power with very little losses going into heat, but they move any distortion (by design) out of audible ranges. This is why a nicely designed Class D audio amp can be so incredibly smooth, powerful and not very warm to the touch with amazingly low power consumption in the idle mode. I think that my 2000 watt per channel M1’s draw only 3 watts in standby and 13 watts when in full on operation at idle.
I tried to get a copy of the schematic of the M1 from Anthem as a buddy of mine who is an excellent ex-Bell Labs electrical design engineer wanted to study what they employed. Anthem told me that they do not supply technical design data on this amp to anyone as it is extremely proprietary. The guy at Anthem told me that they invested over $5 Million dollars in the R/D engineering of the circuits and they don’t wish to share it with any competitors. I suppose I fully understand this. B&O on the other hand developed their Class D ICE modules for general distribution to manufacturers who wanted a quick and easy way to build Class D amps at very reasonable cost. This is why most amps in Class D on the market are using ICE power modules and why they are great for Sub woofers where high frequency harshness is not an issue, but powerful low distortion Bass frequencies work well.
I did have the opportunity to test and evaluate the Parasound Zonemaster Class D amp. They sent me one to try against the A51 and the M1’s. The Zonemaster is a very nice compact, 600 watt per channel amp. It actually plays very well, but for my ears, it had that well known high frequency harshness due to the inexpensive ICE modules. But it only costs $1200 dollars for a 2 channel 600 watt per channel amp! I told the guys at Parasound that as much as I enjoyed playing with the amp, it was not in my opinion well suited for a very high end audio system with high resolution speakers. I said it was absolutely perfect as an entry level amp for people just getting started and on a budget, or for college kids who want a lot of power in their dorm rooms and who have to move around often as its so light and compact/easy to move; or as an amp in a home theater requiring more channels to drive surrounds or rear speakers.  People using lower cost speakers which are not going to be extremely resolving in the upper frequencies might not even hear any harshness. They got a laugh out of that and said I had actually hit it right on the mark in terms of who their intended market was; so they were very pleased that I was in agreement. They never expected it to be competitive against the likes of the M1’s. But the Zonemaster blew away the A51 Halo in lower end, lower/mid grunt, that thing has some balls. It just was not as smooth in the upper mids/upper range as the A51. A $1200 Zonemaster vs. the $5000 A51 did pretty decently overall though. If I was back in college in my dorm room which was set up like a party/disco club, I would have been the place to be hanging out had I owned the Zonemaster back then vs. my old tube amp. But then again the speakers probably would not have made it through a weekend.

When it comes to high end amps, I think from what I am told the Bryston 28B3 monoblocks at $30K are about as good as it gets. I chatted at length with Ian at Axiom about the 28B3’s vs. the M1’s. He has heard both quite a bit and he told me that they are both top of the line, but he likes the massive reserve power of the 28B3’s and those are his go to amps. I of course pointed out that he is talking in terms of money being no object and he agreed. I asked if he was doing a value comparison, that is the $30K 28B3’s vs. the $7K M1’s, what would he do.... he said the M1’s would always be his normal second choice, but when I put it that way, he’d definitely go with M1’s; they are very close in performance. So there you have it; a well designed Class D amp pair against the some of the best in linear high dollar monoblocks is right in the running. And I am not heating the house with it or paying large utility bills.

As far as a sub amp goes (or run up to ~1kHz) the Class D-based Crown K2 is as good as any I've heard. When bridged it's supposedly a fine all-round amp not restricted to subs/lower to central midrange prowess only. 

As great stand-alone all-round amps costing less than a fortune the Crown Studio Reference I/II (now discontinued) and MC² Audio S800/1400 are highly recommended. Money placed where it matters. 

Slim, I read the Wikipedia thing long ago. I have been familiarizing myself with the digital amps for a long time. I wanted to see what all the hype was about. I have a degree in electronics and spent most of my career in digital. No, I'm not an amp designer, but I understood Class A and A/B over half a century ago.You can't convince me bits ain't bits. Nothing you say can sway me. You're talking spending new car money for amps. Sorry, even the cheap ones are off the table. Not class A or A/B.

I really don't care about efficiency, heat or any of the "benefits" of Class D. Full on and full off is bits. Bits are bits. Bits are digital. Plus they have switching power supplies as well. Enjoy your Class D's and spend another 50K to 100K on equipment. If you got it  spend it.
Peace, out.

Ah, but there is where you are wrong, the good ones do not have switching power supplies, that was precisely my entire point.   And the operational state of a solid state device is not a computer bit.  But that's OK, I really like the Class D and others should try them too.