Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
A few posts ago I had mentioned I had tried Bare Wire inside a clear PVC tube on my speaker and power cables and the improvements were very positive.

I’ve also been monitoring the bare wire inside the PVC tube for signs of oxidation and as of today things are looking very promising. The bare wire is still very bright and by comparison the piece of bare wire on my audio stand is turning a much darker shade of copper.

I also warned in the post that I thought PVC was not the best tube to use because it gripped the wire when trying to insert it - I thought at that time that Teflon tube would be a better material.

Yesterday I received some Teflon tube I had ordered - approx 1/10" internal diameter.

So today I decided to try Bare Wire in one of my interconnects that used Neotech UP-OCC copper with Teflon insulation.

Removing the insulation was quite easy using a hobby knife and running it down the wire and pealing it back

I used
  • two strands of bare 18 gauge Neotech wire, twisted together
  • 3-4 twists per inch
  • one piece of Teflon tube with Heat Shrink at each end

The improvements were far from subtle and heard immediately...
  • more high end details - vocals now had a definite whispery quality and venue acoustics were better defined
  • mid tones were fuller and more complete
  • bass was deeper with better texture
  • dynamics were noteicebly fast with more slam
  • image was little wider and better focussed
  • the whole presentation was more natural and full bodied
Crap! - now I had to do the IC for the digital side :-)

This time I used
  • 2 strands of 18 gauge VH Audio solid UP-OCC copper wire - not the Neotech wire
  • 3-4 twists per inch
  • and the same Teflon Tube build
Again the improvements were easily discernable and just as good as the Neotech wire.

I could not tell the difference between the Neotech and VH Audio wire - which was not that strange because they are both 18 gauge UP-OCC solid copper.

The twisted wires fit the tube nicely with adequate space such that the impacts of the Teflon tube is negligible - basically this approach has a Dielectric Constant very close to Air, which results in amazingly clear details and better image.

The improvements in dynamics was a surprise, because the conductivity of the copper had not changed - just the insulation

I’m hoping that sealing the ends of the teflon tube with the heat shrink that has the adhesive inside will halt the oxidation process as it appears to have done with the PVC tubing.

Now I am all out of ideas - this was the last change I had considered.

Should you rush out and change your cables?

That depends on your own person level of ANAL :-)

BTW - these cables have just started Burn-in, so I will post and update once they complete burn-in in a couple of weeks.

But right now they sound pretty amazing - on both digital and analogue music

Regards - Steve

What if we spiral wound a flat ribbon style copper or silver conductor around a wider diameter Teflon tube for the Helix? Oh my 🤔
@grannyring ...

RE: Hot Glue
  • the heat shrink seems to work, the adhesive inside the Heat Shrink sealed the end very nicely.
  • But hot glue does not make the tube any wider like the Heat Shrink did - better for inserting into the coil.
  • There is very little air inside the tube once the two twisted wires are inserted
  • I did wonder if I could somehow inject carbon dioxide or Nitrogen into the tube to stop oxidation - still working on that :-)

RE: A spiral ribbon - go for it :-)))

But I think we might be leaving the realm of your average DIYer.

But it is fun to consider this stuff - LOL

What is interesting is the wire seems to sound extremely good immediately - almost as though it is burned in - which makes me wonder - do you Burn-in the wire or the insulation???

Granted the neutral wire and the RCA’s are well and truly burned in, but I was expecting some indication that burn-in was required.

When either Neotech or VH Audio wires had the insulation on them, they required about 200 hours burn-in - before that there was some imaging issues and harshness. Not this time.

Something to ponder :-)

Will keep everyone posted

Regards - Steve
Hi Steve. Great thread and informations.
You twist the 2 bare wires together and put them together in one teflon tube, instead of twisting 1 bare wire in a teflon tube, with 1 bare wire in a teflon tube?

Don’t use hotglue, because it doesn’t sound good. Seal the tube with epoxy glue in the heat shrink or use diagmagnetics materiale like these...put a little piece of wool in the tube ends and seal it with shell lack. Steen Duelund liked diagmagnetic materials a lot.

Are there anyone here there have tried to use this diy helix recipe as a dc cable from a psu to the source?