Duelund conversion to DIY Helix Geometry Cabling


I have been an avid user of the Duelund cabling for over two years now and have used them exclusively in my system with great results. I have built many for friends and have used a full loom of interconnects, speaker cables, power cords and an extensive wiring modification for a previously owned balanced power conditioner utilizing Duelund 600V PolyCast wiring which was transformative. My cabling desires can be a little addictive as I have owned and evaluated 40+ brands of cabling costing more than an entire stereo system!

Over the past six months I stumbled upon a thread here on Audiogon in regards to a Helix designed cabling and as you probably already know, I just had to look a little deeper into this cable design…After a month of studying and sourcing parts, I decided to reach out to the designer/architect, Williewonka who gave more insights and philosophy on how the cable came into existence.

That conversation got the ball rolling in converting one of my KLE Duelund interconnects to Steve’s Helix designed which only entailed replacing the neutral with a Mil-Spec 16 AWG silver-plated copper wire with the neural wire being 3 times longer than the signal wire and of course the “Coiling” of the neutral wire : )

After the modification was complete, I was not sure what to expect from the Helix cabling but I was quite shocked with the results with “ZERO” burn-in time…The sound stage became much wider/deeper with a much tighter/focused image and clarity/transparency is like nothing I have ever heard in any cabling regardless of cost. In fact, I just sold a full loom of a commercially designed Helix Cable that’s renowned around the world and has more direct sale than any cable manufacturer; these $200 DIY Helix Cables walked all over them…

I believe you will hear the same results as I have and have heard back from friends who have already modified their Duelunds with the same results; WOW! Remember the cables will need 200+ hours to burn-in and settle into your system. My system is now 90% DIY Helix to include IC, SC, PC and Coax with each cabling adding its beauty of an organic and natural presentation that draws you into the fabric of the music.

You can tailor the sound of your cables using Duelund, Mundorf silver/1% gold, the outstanding Vh Audio OCC Solid Copper or Silver with Airlok Insulation or your favorite wiring and you can change it at any time…

 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-diy-cables.html

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/difference-in-sound-between-copper-and-silver-digital-cables

https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/adding-shielding-to-existing-cables

 

Enjoy,

Wig


128x128wig
This is how I build my helix usb.   Go to Steve’s site where he posted my pics and build instructions.  Best to not have to make the cable with the 5v conductor if possible.  Many dacs supply their own clean 5v internally for the usb input.  Some do not. Here is the link. 

You can use VH Audio 18 gauge silver or copper for the data conductors.  Silver sounds better than copper.  You can strip off the Teflon insulation and cover with silk for the best sound.  Each data conductor much be placed in a 1.5-2.5mm internal dimension silk tube before making a twisted data pair. 

You must be skilled at soldering the thicker gauge wires onto the tiny and closely spaced usb solder pads.  Any solder bridges will ruin you dac’s usb input board! 

http://www.image99.net/blog/files/category-002ahelix-image-usb-cable.html


At risk of proposing something silly, what about this product? Basically a coating on the bare wire to prevent oxidation? Then add the cotton or silk sleeve.
https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=23&a...


@duffyd - definitely food for thought for sure

So in my case I used s twisted pair, so I might take this approach...
  • I would apply this coating after the wires were twisted, because the twisting could remove the coating
  • keep the coats very thin by wiping off any excess between coats
  • apply 2 thin coats
Now ...
  • applying any type of coating will increase the Dielectric Constant when compared to the naked wire
  • but to what level would be he question
  • but the effect of a couple of thin coats should be negligible

Personally, from what I am observing, i.e. by comparing my "naked" wires inside the sealed tube to the piece of naked wire I have sitting on my audio rack - I’m not ready to add this step to my cables just yet

It might be easy to achieve for 1 - 2 meter cables, BUT for my 10 ft speaker cables, it would present significant challenges, especially in my cramped winter work space at present

One member had suggested wiping the naked wire with WD40.
  • easy to do in almost any space
  • readily available
  • and very affordable
  • I just don’t know how effective this is - just yet :-)

Keep the ideas coming - Steve





If you feel you want to coat the naked wire, then use a Sprayon product called red insulating varnish. This is what is used to spray transformer windings to prevent shorts. It is electrical grade.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0RQC27/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I think it would most likely degrade the sound vs nude. How much? If at all? No need with silver as oxidation that deteriorates sound quality is not an issue with silver. I know some folks will argue oxidation and sound degradation happens with pure silver, but have owned and built many pure silver cables, I have yet to hear or see any deterioration after almost 15 years! My home is always temperature controlled and maintains a humidity level under 40 however.

 This spray is for those who are concerned about copper. Jupiter and other companies make copper in cotton conductors and I have used these for years without any sound or serious oxidation problems. However, on paper it can sure happen. 

Which leads us back full circle to the Duelund tinned copper in cotton.

Is the red stuff a DIY version of what Anti-Cables does?