@dover
@ atmasphere
That there are resonances in the SME V armwand and that these can be dealt with through the application of some external damping material is confirmed by others, notably the former contributor to this website (and turntable designer) 'DerTonarm'. Also, some years ago on the Vinyl Asylum the contributor ‘dice45' put forward a similar idea of how this could be achieved.
The main idea is that you apply some damping material - thinly rolled out blu tack - to the area where the armwand widens, near the bearings.
Dice45 also applied the same material inside the headshell, in the hollowed out area.
Another possibility is to use a specialised product, Marigo Labs tuning dots (very small self-adhesive dots made of damping material and specially designed for use on arms).
I have tried both of these over long periods, and have certainly had the impression that both do something (the blu tack solution is ugly, even if you manage to find a black version). I still have the Marigo Labs dots in place, but frankly so much time has gone past that I have no clear recollection of what effect the resonances had on the sound before (I am reluctant to remove the dots to see, as I fear that the adhesive might not work any longer). Does either of you have a clear idea of what the resonances do that is detrimental to the overall sound?
Regarding the problem of VTA setting, I too have found it difficult to regulate arm height in repeatable fashion, as well as locking the arm column again so that it is perpendicular and not cranked. I have worked out a way around this problem: it involves making a pair of blocks that you place under each side of the arm (the VTA screw has to be removed to allow this) so as to give the desired height when the arm is lowered onto them. The best way to make these blocks is to buy a number of rectangular rubber erasers (Staedtler makes a suitable one that is 1cm high) and you then find some thin but stiff card (clothing labels are quite good for this) and cut pieces to the same size as the eraser. You can then progressively pile cards on top of the erasers on each side - the same number on each side, obviously - until you reach the optimal arm height. If you then glue the cards and eraser together you have a repeatable way of setting arm height for the cartridge in question.
Best regards,
Peter
@ atmasphere
That there are resonances in the SME V armwand and that these can be dealt with through the application of some external damping material is confirmed by others, notably the former contributor to this website (and turntable designer) 'DerTonarm'. Also, some years ago on the Vinyl Asylum the contributor ‘dice45' put forward a similar idea of how this could be achieved.
The main idea is that you apply some damping material - thinly rolled out blu tack - to the area where the armwand widens, near the bearings.
Dice45 also applied the same material inside the headshell, in the hollowed out area.
Another possibility is to use a specialised product, Marigo Labs tuning dots (very small self-adhesive dots made of damping material and specially designed for use on arms).
I have tried both of these over long periods, and have certainly had the impression that both do something (the blu tack solution is ugly, even if you manage to find a black version). I still have the Marigo Labs dots in place, but frankly so much time has gone past that I have no clear recollection of what effect the resonances had on the sound before (I am reluctant to remove the dots to see, as I fear that the adhesive might not work any longer). Does either of you have a clear idea of what the resonances do that is detrimental to the overall sound?
Regarding the problem of VTA setting, I too have found it difficult to regulate arm height in repeatable fashion, as well as locking the arm column again so that it is perpendicular and not cranked. I have worked out a way around this problem: it involves making a pair of blocks that you place under each side of the arm (the VTA screw has to be removed to allow this) so as to give the desired height when the arm is lowered onto them. The best way to make these blocks is to buy a number of rectangular rubber erasers (Staedtler makes a suitable one that is 1cm high) and you then find some thin but stiff card (clothing labels are quite good for this) and cut pieces to the same size as the eraser. You can then progressively pile cards on top of the erasers on each side - the same number on each side, obviously - until you reach the optimal arm height. If you then glue the cards and eraser together you have a repeatable way of setting arm height for the cartridge in question.
Best regards,
Peter