Follow the manufacture/distributors recommendation. Do not over-tighten. I would not use any thread lock either. Seriously, you’re trying to over-think a simple operation.
Do I expect too much?
Spent Sunday trying to track down an upper midrange rattle in my system - both channels but not necessarily exactly the same from side to side. I suspected loose or corroded connections but needed to move one of my Monitor Audio Gold 200 floorstanding speakers to access the back of my components. When I did I found a screw on the floor. The screw was only part of the footer and while it needed to be dealt with I don’t believe it was part of the issue. But that did get me to thinking about the speaker screws. These speakers have a unique driver mounting system where they are held in place by screws on the rear of the cabinet that physically pull the drivers into place. I checked them and on both speakers they were all significantly loose - one was about to fall out (my 19-year-old says it’s because I listen too loud but that is whole other string).
So I looked in my MA manual and it didn’t even mention the screws. Next I went to the MA website and their contact us page allowed me to send an email to their North American distributor - Kevro. I asked for the torque spec. I did receive a prompt reply but was told, “there is no torque specification. They should be tightened finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
I expected more - am I wrong? For one thing I am pretty sure my finger tight and oldhvymec’s finger tight are 2 very different things. For another these screws (maybe they are bolts - it’s a close call) have a broad flat head with a 4 mm hex inset - they aren’t really finger tightable (is that even a word?).
Also any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated. I recall OHM saying he torqued the hell out of all his speaker screws (or some words to those effect).
Thanks,
Matt
So I looked in my MA manual and it didn’t even mention the screws. Next I went to the MA website and their contact us page allowed me to send an email to their North American distributor - Kevro. I asked for the torque spec. I did receive a prompt reply but was told, “there is no torque specification. They should be tightened finger tight plus 1/4 turn.
I expected more - am I wrong? For one thing I am pretty sure my finger tight and oldhvymec’s finger tight are 2 very different things. For another these screws (maybe they are bolts - it’s a close call) have a broad flat head with a 4 mm hex inset - they aren’t really finger tightable (is that even a word?).
Also any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated. I recall OHM saying he torqued the hell out of all his speaker screws (or some words to those effect).
Thanks,
Matt
- ...
- 19 posts total
Maybe think about replacing the existing screws with treadlocking ones, something like these would stand a better chance of staying put. |
I am familiar with your issue, I also received the exact same advice. You may have to use a hex key to turn the bolt to "finger tight". If this is the case use the long side of your hex key. Insert it into the bolt head using your thumb and forefinger to tighten the bolt until the head is snug to the back of the cabinet. By snug I mean just to the point you have full contact between the cabinet and the bolt head. At that point give it the extra 1/4-1/2 turn with your hex key. I say 1/4-1/2 because mine actually took a bit more than 1/4 turn before the bolts would no longer move side to side or up and down. This will make sense when you tighten them up! Hope you find this helpful. Oh I would also recommend inserting the long end of your hex key in the bolt head when you make the final torque. This way you will have less leverage reducing the chance of accidentally over torqueing the bolt. Have a good day! JF |
- 19 posts total