DAC as a preamp?


I need a new DAC. I use my computer for volume control, but do not trust it. I want separate volume control. The 90s me would have immediately thought preamp. But since I need a new DAC, my question stands ... DAC as a preamp?
I've posted more info about my system below.
I need some advice on the best way to go about getting volume control for these powerful asp1000 amplifiers. I've read about the high input impedance. I use a computer for my source playing Flac, wav or hi-res audio files. I'm using a very simple dongle Style USB DAC that sounds okay. I have choices, but do not know what my best bet is. For simplicity, it would seem I should just buy a better desktop DAC, such as and SMSL M500 and use the volume control knob on front. Or ANY other DAC with a volume control for that matter. I know I can use my volume control the USB. Provides through the keyboard on my computer. But with amplifiers this powerful, I figure I should have a volume control to prevent issues such as full volume noise blasts, which have happened before when the computer glitches. My second option would be to purchase a regular preamp. This would be the most expensive option, as I would want something at least as good as the Schitt Freya +, and that is $900! I would still need a decent DAC upgrade. This gets expensive with my health issues at hand. The last way I could go, is something like an all tube gain stage. I would still need a DAC, but a simple gain stage kit should only be a few hundred at most. The other two options I can think of, would be the pass B1 buffer clone kit preamp for 150 dollars, but I don't know if it would play nice with a high input impedance of the icepower amp. The most simple and cheapest route, would be be using the Sure digital volume control option. But I do not know how high fidelity that would be. I could really use some help. I've been out of this hobby for about 10 years now. I feel a bit lost and appreciate everyone who has helped so far.
flaxxer
@flaxxer 

Trying to find the perfectly unobtrusive high quality volume control/attenuator/etc solution that doesn’t lose resolution, etc can get expensive quickly. There’s a still a good chance that you may be happy with the Topping D90 on its own (it comes down to how unforgiving your ears are). Hence, you could start there. If you’re happy with it, you wouldn’t need anything else.

Like I mentioned, the 750 dollar Topping D90 hit the peak of diminishing returns on DS dacs for my ears. However, there is another budget oriented option, the Topping E30 that sounds pretty good, while costing only a 150 bucks. My daughter who also happens to be a golden ear bat uses it on her desktop hifi setup and is quite happy with it. You can always return it if it didn't cut it for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Topping-E30-Optical-Coaxial-Portable/dp/B0865Y9F6R/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=topping+e30&qid=1614442985&s=electronics&sr=1-3

I have some of NPass’s older gear and as you may know, most Class A gear made here can cost an arm and a leg. When a) the wallet is not happy and b) you’re not too picky on the country of origin w.r.t gear, the Chinese Dragon can often offer a rescue package for many golden ear bats out there. You could try to get your hands on a Jungson (Zhongshen) class A preamp on its own (600 to 700ish USD) at a later time.
https://www.amazon.com/JUNGSON-Balanced-PREAMP-Standard-JungSon/dp/B086WVXC8T/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=jungson+ja1&qid=1614442572&s=electronics&sr=1-1
There are ways to get stuff like this cheaper directly from China. But, amazon's protection could be worth it.

One couldn’t even build/DIY gear of this caliber in the US at prices like these, let alone try to sell if for a profit. A couple of vulture pricing companies i know here contract these guys at Jungson to design/make their gear. Once it reaches our shores, it gets a different brand name and a 1500% markup. 



I have already purchased the D90. I guess I can send it back and by an R2R instead. Or I can buy a balanced headphone amplifier with remote control, if one can be had for 400. That would also be the same price. Just add that to my D90.
I could always control the volume on my keyboard. BUT, when I was doing this about 10 years ago. Once every couple of weeks, I would get an immediate full volume blast of noise, until I could turn it down real fast. Now I'm using 1000 watts per speaker. This would destroy most drivers. THIS is the ONLY reason I am looking for different ways to control the volume.
Only a few R2R's with the extra bits that Delta Sigma have towards volume attenuation. 
@unsound .... 1 watt one meter. Those are nominal impedance numbers. BUT, none of my speakers dip much lower than 3.7 ohms. I KNOW they can be driven by a single watt. THIS IS WHAT SOME ARE MISSING ... The lower powered boards cost $600+, and were back ordered.... The 1000 watt boards are ON SALE for only $500 per pair, instead of the normal $770 per pair, and in stock. THIS is why I own these very powerful amplifiers. NO other reason.
Headroom is a good thing on digital amps. Huge headroom on Class AB amps can create noise issues (see Pro amps). But digital has a black background. SO I just need a way to control the volume, without degrading the sound quality, to prevent accidentally getting full volume, if my cat crosses my keyboard!