845/211 tube amplifiers with kef reference 5?


Hi, am seeking for advise from those who have the kef reference 5 or have 845 or 211 tube amplifiers.

I personally own a pair of kef reference 5, driving them with primaluna dialogue HP integrated tube amplifiers with EL34 tubes at 70 watts. Am liking the sound but cant help but wonder if playing with the bigger tubes like 845 or 211 will give it even more tube magic, sweetness/softness, musicality and wider soundstage.

However, those amps typically are lower powered around 20-30watts, and would like to ask for advice of those are suitable to power a kef reference 5 which is 90db at 8 ohms and minimal impedance of 3.2ohms? Recommended power is 50w to 400w but i know tube watts can be more powerful than solid state. 

For those of you who have matched a system like that or heard set ups of these forms of amplifiers with the kef ref 5, or have similar experiences, would like to seek some advice/get some experience from you

Thank you!
Regards
Ben
thegreenman
That’s just what sets do, look at ANY SET into the Stereophile simulated speaker load frequency response graph, most sets act like tone controls.
Sheesh! The Stereophile simulated speaker load ignores the fact that SETs do not function a voltage source (Voltage Paradigm) devices. As a result they will 'act like a tone control' (more accurately, will exhibit a tonal anomaly)  on speakers that expect the amp to behave as a voltage source (which is most speakers).

But! If the SET is running on a speaker **designed** for this sort of thing (IOW the speaker is a Power Paradigm device too, which is *all* speakers made before 1955) then there will be no tonal issues and the SET can be neutral other than the coloration brought on by the lower ordered harmonics, which audiophiles call 'warmth' or 'bloom'. Speakers that fall into this category will often have controls on the rear to adjust the speaker to the voltage response of the amp (midrange and tweeter level controls). But some speakers, like Coincident loudspeakers, are simply designed to expect a high output impedance of the amp and don't need the controls.


Put another way George is spreading misinformation, apparently out of a misunderstanding of how tube amplifiers behave.

Yes as I also said the bass is the problem unless there’s a 4ohm tap, then ultimate loudness is reduced
This statement is false. Loudness or sound pressure is a function of power output. If the amplifier is making the same power into 8 ohms as it does into 4 (which is what the taps are for) then the sound pressure will be the same since its power will be the same if properly loaded. Now if the speaker is 4 ohms and you use the 8 ohm tap to drive it, you may find that there is less sound pressure on that tap because the power tube is now loaded at an impedance well below optimal. This will cause it to run hotter since some of the power it makes will be absorbed by the tube itself, and because that is the case there will be less output power available to the speaker (and it will be higher distortion). 
thegreenman OP

Don't listen to Ralph, it won't be a disaster like he's making out, he's got a bee in his bonnet, over something.

They will work up to a point as verdataudio and I outlined.And very good if you just use them for the mids and highs, with a cheap class-D on the bass.Maybe he's got some sort of other agenda with his soon to be released Class-D and got you in his sights.
Cheers George

it won't be a disaster like he's making out, he's got a bee in his bonnet, over something.
'Something' is misinformation. In case there is any question, I am a manufacturer of tube amplifiers that employ zero feedback. I know all too well that such amps don't work on speakers of this type. You're not seeing me recommend our amps here. That should tell you something. I just don't like to see people flush $$$$$ down the loo for nothing.

If the speaker is bi-amplified, then an SET might work on the top. But you'll have to try it with a loaner- you might find that even with bi-amplification (and by that I mean also using an electronic crossover) that the SET still doesn't have enough power even if it can handle the load.

Again, to get the most of an SET, it should not be used past 20-25% of full power.


Dear All,

Thank you so much for your replies. Sorry for the delay as I was heavily bogged down by work. Am grateful to each and every of your replies.

Especially to atmasphere, thanks so much for sharing your views from a tube amplifier designer/manufacturer point of view on SET. I never knew that SETs are not meant to be pushed past their 20-25% mark. Still trying to process and understand some of your more technical comments but am very grateful for your sharing.

Am curious, how about push-pull 845 amplifiers in monoblock configuration? Eg 50w class A, each channel driven by 2 845 or 211 tubes? Would those be sufficient to drive the kef reference 5? 

Thanks
Hi Verdantaudio,

Thanks for your replies as well! I did consider bi-amping but was worried about the matching of the sound. Heard a steve guttenberg video where he was trying to match a tube for high/mid and solid state class A for bass, and sounded bad. Haha hence I am holding that off for now though I agree technically its a feasible option! :)

Heard mcintosh mc901 demos though and agree those sound wonderful! But definitely out of my price range :pp

Cheers
Ben