Why amps, pre-amps, integrated amps???

12-07-11: Orpheus10
"Hi end" audio is all about diminishing returns. All separate and mono blocks yield the ultimate audio when this is what your ears require, and you listen to music enough to justify the expense.

It's not necessarily more expensive. The maturity of high end audio plus the rise of Chinese-sourced new components change the high end price/performance ratio.

Consider: My combination of Jolida phono and line stage pre's plus vintage tuner and 180wpc power amp cost me a total of $1007. You will *not* find a new receiver or integrated amp at that price that can touch the power, clarity, and musicality of this stack.

Even going new, you can get an Emotiva USP-1 pre (with phono stage) plus 125 wpc UPA-1 power amp for $658. You'd be hard-pressed to find a new integrated--let alone a receiver--that could approach its performance at that price. Entry-level separates are no longer the big jump in price compared to integrateds and receivers worth listening to. The only disadvantages are rack space requirements and the cost of interconnects.

I like vintage tuners. In regard to the 180wpc power amp as compared to the very same amp as monoblocks, from a price performance point of view the 180wpc would be the winner; but there's nothing like the 3D soundstage of monoblocks, this is a result of the channel separation. While this is over the top, if you ever get used to monoblocks, you're hooked.

12-08-11: Orpheus10
I like vintage tuners. In regard to the 180wpc power amp as compared to the very same amp as monoblocks, from a price performance point of view the 180wpc would be the winner; but there's nothing like the 3D soundstage of monoblocks, this is a result of the channel separation. While this is over the top, if you ever get used to monoblocks, you're hooked.

Well, it's interesting to note that the Heathkit's big brother, the AA-1800 (rated 250 wpc but more like 350) is a full dual mono design with two power cords. Single chassis, but true dual mono.

If I had the rack space, I'd love to get a second AA-1600 and bi-amp. Then I'd have a separate amp for each speaker.

If you're into "kits", you can also get deep into the "high end" by substituting parts. For example you could substitute better capacitors, of the same value of course; and other parts as well. This would give you a true "high end" amp.

12-09-11: Orpheus10
If you're into "kits", you can also get deep into the "high end" by substituting parts. For example you could substitute better capacitors, of the same value of course; and other parts as well. This would give you a true "high end" amp.

Actually, I'm not a modder or a kitter. My amp is a Heathkit because that's the name of the company and they made very high quality kits. But I bought mine used, which means it was already assembled. I agree about how--if you're handy with a soldering iron--you can upgrade the parts in a signal path to great effect. I've never done any modding except for some tube-rolling.

I have a Jolida JD-9A phono stage and there are slews of mods out there including capacitor upgrades, but I never learned solder well. However, there's a lot of buzz about replacing the factory socketed op amps (about $1.19 ea) with $18-22 ones made to greater speed and lower noise specs. I'll probably get a chip puller and pop in the upgrade replacements.