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Math + Logic + Science = something completely mad...

So, I've done a metric fuckton of research, notwithstanding the clear bias the man who designed and built my Belles has against esoteric cabling.  And here's the conclusion to which I arrived. 

My monoblocks are sitting on top of the speakers.  The distance from the amp to the speaker is barely a foot, which is exactly how long a run of wire I intend to use.  Goal is to minimize the effect the wire has on the sound.  

According to the calculations I've seen and done, the skin effect depth on copper wire at 20Khz is 461 micrometers.  Meaning a 19-gauge copper wire (911 mics diameter) would reduce skin effect to zero.  As in no impact whatsoever on the signal. 
 
Of course, it's actually very difficult to find 19-gauge wire.  18-gauge (1024 mics) is much easier, and the skin effect is near zero, but not quite zero.  Seems to be an acceptable compromise. Could go down to 20-gauge and eliminate skin effect entirely.  If I could find insulated aluminum wire, 18-gauge would eliminate skin effect entirely, because skin effect depth on aluminum at 20khz is 580 mics.  

12 inches of 18-gauge wire produces 0.006 ohms of additional resistance.  20-gauge = 0.01 ohms.  

Frankly, I don't see the value in spending big bucks on esoteric, heavy-gauge wire for this application.  I'd rather make the bigger investment in the 2m runs from the preamp to the blocks, because that's where the wire's going to have a hell of a lot more of an effect on the sound.  

Stepping back to allow you all the opportunity to punch holes in my thought process here. 
jerkface
Post removed 
oldhvymec
5,101 posts
 
So now I'm thinking some basic 12-gauge Belden with some nicely welded spade ends from Blue Jean Cable is the correct answer here.  

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Yes and if you can manage, cold press the ends, no solder. Treat the bare wire before you install it into the bore with a good enhancer. Graphite dust works great. If you have to solder, use GREAT solder, that is another boo boo, people make.  They solder ends instead of tinning and using and enhancer with a cold press or HEAVY hammer strikes will work. 20-30 tons with 2 of my hammer strikes..

2 strikes with a 6 pounder will do.. One to set the cable and a second to cold weld them.. Up to 2.0 gage.. Hammer strikes.. 

Yup...

Bla bla Bla.. 18 gage is perfect.. Not in this lifetime.. 40 watt reading light.. SOUND not appliances... Not anywhere close to the same application...

Regards
williewonka
3,075 posts
 
@jerkface - have you considered wire type, wire material, insulation?.

Wire type: solid wire is far superior to stranded wire

Wire Material: UP-OCC solid Silver is best, but to keep it reasonable then use UP-OCC solid copper

Insulation has an impact on the signal, so you should look at getting as close to an Air insulation as much as possible.

NOTE: Insulation acts like a dielectric and there is a measurement called Dielectric Constant, where...
  • Teflon is 2.2
  • Foamed Teflon is 1.45
  • cotton is 1.3
  • Air is 1.1
  • vacuum is 1.0
So to make your cables...
  • Start with bare UP-OCC wire
  • Actually use two identical wire twisted together for each conductor - it seems to improve things, but I am yet to discover exactly why
  • insert the bare wire into a Teflon tube that is just larger than the wire - the tube does not collapse around the wire like cotton, so the wire only ever touches the tube in one very small place - the rest of the wire is surrounded by air
  • seal the ends with a small piece of heat shrink to prevent oxidation
  • Attach KLE Innovations Bananas, they provide the best connection method available - I've tried many methods and these are the best
Since you are keeping the wires as short as possible you should get the best sound possible using this technique

I use cables that are 9ft long and get exceptional sound quality.

Take a look at this thread...
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/duelund-conversion-to-diy-helix-geometry-cabling

The last two pages talk about Air dielectric and what others have found when applying this approach

There is also mention of power cables and Interconnects that adopt the Helix geometry, materials and insulations mentioned in that post and they work extremely well

Cables are far more complex than people believe them to be - it’s NOT as many believe just L, C, R.

Regards - Steve

Post removed 
jerkface OP
73 posts
 
Yes and if you can manage, cold press the ends, no solder
BJC will assemble your cables for you, doing an ultrasonic cold-weld instead of soldering the ends.  

Considering I *have* to use either fork or ring terminals on the speaker side, seems more convenient to just let them throw the ends on there for me and call it a day.  

@williewonka 

That sounds like a really cool DIY cable.  It also sounds like way more time, effort, and expense than I want to endure at the present moment (mostly because I have SO many other things both in my listening space and in the rest of the house where I need to invest time, effort, and expense right now).  

Maybe I'll get a quote from you to make me a pair of them so I can audition them against the BJC/Belden joints. 


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