Russco, QRK, Sparco, Garrard, Thoren, Fairchild, Roberts


Ok I have several of the old rim drive broadcast TT. Russcos, QRKs, Sparcos, and
a few more. Also different Transcriptions, Thoren TD 121, 124s, 224s, and Garrard 401s.
Had a Fairchild (stolen). What's your favorites, or ones not mentioned.

Plinths, what are you using, what have you made, what have you bought??

I'm into the actual repair and mods of the machine more than the use, I love um', but
they are used.

Have any tips, tricks, suggestions?

Regards
oldhvymec
Yea that is a clean clean clean deal. Very Very fine steel wool is your friend, too. The motor ball you can replace it with a ceramic if you want, I stick with conductive parts in motors UNLESS it suppose to be insulated or sealed (as per application, non spark).

Newer fractal motors and some of the broadcast had fixed updated neo magnets.. Hard to tell if they are smooth when they are assembled, magnet drag... Smaller too.. 1/10 HP (Vroom Vroom).  I think they are Japanese made and very well made they are... 100 year motors with maintenance and another 100 with more maintenance. :-)

I just went out and did some sanding on the top of a Russco Plinth, I started it over 10 months ago. Just starting to feel good enough to work, but so out of shape.. 15 minutes is a LONG time.. Mercy.. Gettin' there though, just a little color sanding.. Ready for color and a hard clear coat.

Again so you know Hammer coat in a rattle can is VERY VERY good.
They actually use it on BIG drifters (rock hammers) as a finish protective paint.. It use to blow my mind how well it stood up and touched without being able to tell they touched up the original paint.. 

Different Note:

I just picked up a Puffin phono preamp. I'm thinking it will be the PERFECT combo... Has onboard POP eliminator and tons of programmable options, ADC digital connection option and RCA.
TONE control... I love that option spinning vinyl and recording it..

I have a new Jelco 10.5" TA. I think it will be a good fit.. on the Russcos or QRKs

It may be the perfect piece (Puffin) for me and RtR recording from a GREAT piece of vinyl, (I have a few) or any source, maybe even a digital original.

The problem with RtR today is source tape. 90% I wouldn't even listen to.. In spite of my age, I've never been an HUGE Opera fan, THOUGH I did attend a few I really enjoyed.

Too much of a Tower of Power, James Brown, Gram Central Station, War, Carlos, kind of a guy.. :-) Throw in all the Outlaws in country western, Metallica and a big ol blob US blues... BB King comes to mind, or Muddy Waters. US Jazz ok... Miles Davis, Tony Williams (Sr) Stanley Clark, Herbie H or Chick C (Rip) and Jeff Beck.. I'm good...

Todays music.. LOL I like a lot of it.. NOW I want it on Reel to Reel. PERIOD. No I don't care how I get it there as long as I can get it to sound GREAT... Good for now will work.  :-)

600.00 dupe master tapes, I don't like, really won't work for me.. 

Legally it's an archive as long as I don't sell it and I can give it away with the original source I paid for and choose to resale..

I use to love my RtR I'm close now.. 6-8 weeks Decware might send me a Tape/phono preamp.. 5 months 3 weeks now.. 4 weeks with Soundsmith and no delivery for "IN STOCK", carts.. ?????

EVERYONE is still in recovery mode.. Me 16 heart attacks later an in general, pissed off. LOL. Fixed that part, at least, thank God..  Now 15 lbs has got to go..

A$$ and Belly fat nanites.. :-)

Regards
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202808747120?var=502967448568

Guys/Gals this an address for a cable that can't be PMed for some reason..

I use this in a 1 meter, great Power Cable for 49.00.. 1-3 weeks delivery time.. Great construct for speaker IC too. BIG time bang for the buck..

Regards
oldhvymec, have you ever used Dynamat on the chassis? Once you strip everything from the cast chassis it rings like a bell if you tap it. I just hate to stick it on as I don't think it comes off easily.
I got a lot done today at my buddy's shop. I used a internal bearing puller and removed the top bushing from the spindle housing. The lower bearing couldn't be reached so I did a quick measurement and as I suspected, it showed little wear. So I made a bushing driver and a guide block and installed a new bushing for the top bearing. Now the clearance between the spindle and bushing measures 0.0013, about 0.0005 tighter than before. I also made a new bottom bearing setscrew with a Delrin puck insert. While I was at it I made a bushing driver to replace the oil lite bearing in the idler as well. Now it spins freely on the idler stud with no play. Will ship that to Terrys Rubber Rollers tomorrow.Next week the chassis goes to the powder coater.
BillWojo
No I haven't used Dynamat, BUT I have used black hole and a few others.

Dynamat will work just fine. So does the spray on TV that seals gutters and BOATS. Flex Seal. Tape everything off and a coat or two.. Same with the platter. You can use silicone too to get rid of the ring.. (the bottom)
The top FELT is exactly what it's for.. noise and a slipper Que..

I've seen people cut one two or three groves in the top platters side and fit dampening O-Rings too.. Add or remove, for the dampening you like..

Lots of tricks.

Those tolerances your talking about are for a turbo rebuild spinning at 20-50,000 rpms.. LOL. remember on a TT sloppy is good, too tight is not..

The platter bushings get loose, but seldom are TOO worn.. I've seen water damage wreak havoc though..

Drive bogies that's different.. I've seen a LOT of those with no thrust or wave washers to preload the drive wheel. the type of lube is pretty important and KEEPING the lube on the bushing is kinda tough just because of design.. My little axels for the drive hubs have a reverse spiral cut up the side. it helps to riffle the lube up the shaft as apposed to not at all or down the shaft.. O rings and wave washers seal the bottom.. kind of... :-)  No squeaky tight.. loosie goosy is a lot better.. :-)

Aren't they the BOMB.. Everybody need at least one.. I love um..

I'm thinking a 2" acrylic platter on top of the original platter. Just match the tonearm perch with the thickness of the platter addition. We're getting serious now... the more we do the better they get.. They are that good of a starting point.. people don't realize how quiet you can really get a TT platter if you just think about it.. How you drive it is different too.

Can always use an external drive motor and O-ring drive belts too.
Fill the bottom of the platter with silicone and that's about 3 or 4 more pounds added. Dead quiet then...

I like the secondary isolation of Thoren 121 and 124 system.. Belt, idler AND gummie puffers between motor and chassis. Boils down to the platter bearing as far a rumble.. ONLY.. Fun being a mechanic..

Usually.. ;-)

Regards..
Armboards 25.00 aluminum. These are usually available on Ebay. I've purchased 4 or so.. For 25.00 you can't beat the price..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224429491252


Regards