This thread has only been dormant for a couple of months, so why not bring it back?
I recently acquired an MA-505L, and mounted it on a Technics SP-25 with the standard SH-15B1 plinth. With a 270mm spindle-to-pivot distance, the arm *barely* fits under the dustcover...naturally only when the arm is docked. Sound is quite good. I think there is something to this 'reduced tracking error' thing with longer arms ;)
I'd love to find more information about the various headshells for the 505 arms. I'm aware of the H-303, H-202, and even the H-40. These all have a similar design/shape, with perhaps only the holes drilled for weight/balance being the difference? Surely they are all made from milled aluminum, and only the number of holes drilled is the difference for weight. I see a bit of variance in listings on eBay.
The headshell weight is particularly critical with the longer 505L when trying to obtain zero balance. In order to get my current setup balanced, I had to use the extra counterweight on the back of the arm, but also tack a US dime to the headshell on the front - not ideal, but it works!
I recently acquired an MA-505L, and mounted it on a Technics SP-25 with the standard SH-15B1 plinth. With a 270mm spindle-to-pivot distance, the arm *barely* fits under the dustcover...naturally only when the arm is docked. Sound is quite good. I think there is something to this 'reduced tracking error' thing with longer arms ;)
I'd love to find more information about the various headshells for the 505 arms. I'm aware of the H-303, H-202, and even the H-40. These all have a similar design/shape, with perhaps only the holes drilled for weight/balance being the difference? Surely they are all made from milled aluminum, and only the number of holes drilled is the difference for weight. I see a bit of variance in listings on eBay.
The headshell weight is particularly critical with the longer 505L when trying to obtain zero balance. In order to get my current setup balanced, I had to use the extra counterweight on the back of the arm, but also tack a US dime to the headshell on the front - not ideal, but it works!