Tubes for Magnepan’s.


I think next up on my acquisition list is a tube amplifier. I'm not looking for the be all end all, cause I don’t think there is a definitive "Best", so am looking for as good as I can get for $3-4k.


Because tubes drive speakers so much more efficiently than solid state I am only looking for 40-50 watts to drive my modded Maggie’s, 1.7i's. (Or what you have when you add a new crossover and planer tweeters to 1.7i's.) Maybe 2.7x? I haven’t settled on that yet. And I have some Zu Dirty Weekend's upgraded to the max coming in in 2 months to replace my KEF's.

Anyway, I haven’t had a tube device since my Halicrafter short wave radio, and reviews are not the same as advice from people that own something. There is a Rouge Audio dealer in my area, last I looked, (opps, they no longer carry them), so I may have to go to another market to hear something, or get a try before you buy from a manufacturer or dealer.

You folks have taught me a lot, and I think asking users is the right thing to do on this change in direction.

Thanks in advance.
128x128william53b
key point is that well built ss amps can double power output into 4 ohms versus their basic 8 ohm load rating... tube amps cannot do this and can struggle to deliver even the same power in 4 ohms versus 8...
Doubling power is not the same as that amp sounding its best.

The reason is distortion- in solid state amps, this tends to be smaller amounts of higher ordered harmonics. Our ears use the higher orders to sense sound pressure and so tiny amounts of that distortion is perceived as harshness and brightness- and quite literally is why tubes are still around.

Steve McCormick has made amps that can easily double power into 4 ohms. But he sent a letter to Paul Speltz (known for anticables and also the ZEROs which are an autoformer) describing how in fact his amps sound better driving low impedance loads using Paul’s ZEROs (www.zeroimpedance.com). I described why above.


Of course, if you have a set of ZEROs to work with your four ohm Maggies, then you can use a tube amp pretty effectively as well. We are in the same town as Magnaplanar and so have a lot of local customers who use our amps with them. Our amps don’t have an output transformer (hence the term OTL) but the combination works quite well. In smaller systems our M-60s get used with the ZEROs.


The bottom line here is that no matter what amp you have, if it is driving a 4 ohm load directly, it will be audibly inferior to how it drives an 8 ohm load or even 16 ohms. The ZEROs are a workaround for this problem.


I know people will say that a big enough solid state amp will do better, but it does not matter the amp, you will see in the specs that its distortion is higher into 4 ohms. Distortion causes colorations (like harshness and brightness); high end audio is all about getting away from that. If you are really stuck on a 4 ohm speaker, consider a set of ZEROs no matter what amps you have.
just so you know, ralph, that link you gave in the last post does not work
The Cary pre looks interesting, and the price is certainly right. Thanks @russ69.


Conventional wisdom never is. 
good to give more exposure to paul s's autoformers which are useful tools to have for dealing with severe speaker impedance mismatch issues

i have a had a set since the mid 2000's... they are very helpful for lower power tube amps that lack multiple taps with insufficient electrical leverage... of course this comes at some cost of tranparency but of course we are dealing with tradeoffs again here