Bi amp and bias issue

Rca analog please thank you I was trying to find one reasonably priced under 1k with goos sound quality.

     I helped a friend of mine bi-amp his (recently purchased, used of course) EP CS2's, with one of these.  
     If one is somewhat computer literate, it's a cakewalk:  https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd   
     Wouldn't call it, "high-end", but it isn't bad, at all.    Perhaps with a better power supply...  
     There are a few apps, that can be added, allowing for such things as Automatic room correction, parametic EQ, etc.  
     I've been using a majorly upgraded, TacT RCS 2.2Xaaa, for a number of years, but: Tact is out of business, so support has to be through online blog, etc.  
     To me: it's an absolute necessity, to bi-amp actively, if using dissimilar (output power, sensitivity, etc) amps.    I used and really enjoyed my modded Dahlquist DQ-LP1, for a few decades, before finding the Tact.  
                                    Good luck, have fun, and enjoy the journey!

I tried using stock crossover using krell for bass and rogue for mid and tweeter and it works but only when i use triode mode on rogue if i switch to ultra linear when I try to bias the meter on rogue oscillates.

If this diagram is correct, there is on the mid/hf panel a .387H choke across the amps speaker terminals, it will seem like a nasty load at certain frequencies, more so in UL than Triode mode https://ibb.co/h7Rw0N2

I would try for a couple of dollars, a big 20-50w 1ohm resistor in series between the Rouge amps + terminal and the + input to the mid tweeter panel terminal, (at the speaker end) this should cure the problem. (may lower the mid/hi level just a touch)
https://www.newark.com/vishay/rh0501r000fe02/wirewound-resistor-1-ohm-50w-1/dp/41K9144



Cheers George

Bi-amping through the factory passive crossovers typically yields minimal improvements. Identical amps must be used with this configuration.

To correctly use active crossovers the factory passive crossovers must be bypassed. Furthermore, whatever other filters existing in the factory passive crossovers (baffle step, zobel, etc.) must be duplicated in the active crossover. The type of crossover filters (first order, second order, Butterworth, Linkwitz-Riley, etc.) should be duplicated or the response and phase can be altered in a very negative way.

While many believe using active crossovers have many benefits (and they do) just swapping out the factory passive crossovers for active crossovers does not guaranty better results. You might get lucky. Building active crossovers that are correct for the speakers and drivers will.

Duplicating the passive Magnepan crossovers in your active crossovers is the right way otherwise you are designing your own speakers. Digital crossovers (DSP) work great as long as you know what you are doing. Maybe a Magnepan person can share the 3.5r crossover specs so you know what needs to be duplicated.

Designing and manufacturing speaker system, we have tried passive, analog active and digital (DSP) active on the same speakers. They all have their pros and cons. Digital crossovers usually win, as long as you use a good quality DSP.

Read as much as you can about active crossovers before you make your decision. There is much written on the subject.

https://www.marchandelec.com/xm9-electronic-crossover.html

https://www.xkitz.com/

For bass ok use active xovers, but mids and highs to me are always more natural sounding using good quality passive xovers no matter what active xover were used.

So as I said in my last post just use the 20w 1ohm resistor and your triode mode tube should then be stable

Cheers George