Jafox,
I agree that the 2-nd digital IC has to be of high quality. I was talking about the first one (form transport to lens). It does make SOME difference, but it is nowhere near as great as the second one, and if you are on the budget, that is the place to save some $$$ IMO.
The best way to save money using GDL is going with ST cables - they are superior to electrical connections and are dirt cheap (you can get one for 30$). Talk about "value-for-money" here. The problem is, not many components sport ST ins/outs. But if they do - use them by all means.
As for power cords - I have tried Shunyata Diamondback and could not tell the difference. Maybe some more expensive cords would, but I was not encouraged to try.
BTW - get the GDL with plastic remote - it doesn't look as good as metal one, but it is easier to use (and it is cheaper). I had both.
I agree that the 2-nd digital IC has to be of high quality. I was talking about the first one (form transport to lens). It does make SOME difference, but it is nowhere near as great as the second one, and if you are on the budget, that is the place to save some $$$ IMO.
The best way to save money using GDL is going with ST cables - they are superior to electrical connections and are dirt cheap (you can get one for 30$). Talk about "value-for-money" here. The problem is, not many components sport ST ins/outs. But if they do - use them by all means.
As for power cords - I have tried Shunyata Diamondback and could not tell the difference. Maybe some more expensive cords would, but I was not encouraged to try.
BTW - get the GDL with plastic remote - it doesn't look as good as metal one, but it is easier to use (and it is cheaper). I had both.