Sopra 2 Bass


New member, first post, and newbie in terms of diving into the world of nice things. This world is insane! I've already been spiraling for a few months researching what to buy, AB'ing countless speakers and amps. I now own a McIntosh MA9000 that's driving my new Focal Sopra N2s via Kimber 12VS. My "dilemma" is with the lack of BASS. I demoed the N2s, so I know it's possible, but absent in my home. I have to use the tone controls (this is where you tear me apart) to bump the low end. I do not know if it's my room, lack of bass traps, or equipment, but I'm failing to get down a little lower without tone adjustments. I stream Tidal Masters to my wired Bluesound NODE 2i (optical to the MA9000 dac). My room is 11'x20.5' with a low, 7.5' ceiling. I have tried as many speaker positions as possible with little change. I already know I need to eliminate room echo in the center of the room and have been researching various acoustic treatments. I feel like I'm off to a good start, but now stuck, not totally satisfied. Yes, it's the best I've ever owned and mind-blowing amazing, emotional, etc, but just short of perfect for me. In tracks where I expect a punch, I get an unmoving transition... Can I get "there" with different wire? Should I consider a sub? Why do folks on this site use two subs? Do I need to hire someone to properly sound-treat the room? Is my room a lost cause for what I own? Reaching out because I'm stuck, afraid to waste money chasing dead ends. My budget is thin after the McIntosh and Focals. Any help would be so appreciated! I hope to learn, grow and pay it forward some day. Thank you.
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Hey @ozzy62 I messed up and the rack does not fit the McIntosh. Appears I looked at other VTI offerings and noted the good spacing, but did not double check my final selection. Maybe it's meant to be. Suppose I better get used to more unboxing and re-boxing during this venture / hobby / addiction. lol  Seems it's most of what I've been doing!

I swear the next thing I'm going to learn is that my room needs an ideal oxygen to nitrogen ratio that's not the same as outdoors... I am still floored by switching the power cable and what transpired. My jaw is sore from smacking the floor so many times this month! 
@james633 and @michaeldunleavy Apologies and please, please bear with me. I revisited testing the 4 and 2ohm taps and need to roll back my findings. First, I wrote 6 and 2 in my last post when I meant 4 and 2, ugh. Second, while the "volume" does seem to drop a tad, it may not be loudness that is dropping, but what I'm hearing may be a smoothing of the track. I am now finding I like 4ohm better than 8. I spent an hour listening to the first minute of Fade to Black on each tap...over and over. 8ohm seems a bit louder, but also a bit harsher... and I do think the bass response is better dipping below 8. Again, I am stunned and have learned I need to run these tests a bit longer than a quick listen / judgment. 4ohm now seems more true, if this statement makes sense, and easier on my ears. Wanted this test out to you asap and I will continue to play with it / give it more time. I love progress. 
A local dealer puts his speakers on the long wall with them nearly 1/2 way to the listening seat well away from the sidewalls and gets prodigious bass from any speaker, including focal’s. It goes against the idea that getting the rear facing port reflective wall support to increase bass, but they’re on to something because the can get that elusive ‘room lock’ bass from bookshelves without subs. If I can’t replicate their results in my room then once I’m done decorating I’m going to hire them for a day.

How much would you spend on a component to get the showroom sound you bought your speakers for? Hire some who knows what they’re doing(not me) to help you.
@steve59 I had a friend ask me about trying them on one of the long walls as well, almost the same time you posted. Doing so was not an option when I started this this post but is now that the room will only serve the purpose of listening. The problem is that the width is only 11'. Need seating for 4 people on the other side, but maybe it will sound good off center? Definitely going to try it once the room is cleared and I'm hearing this system with a fully carpeted (berber) floor that's been hidden for a long time.

@james633 Another update - After a few more hours swapping taps (almost wrote "playing taps", but some might have taken that literally). I am now liking the 8ohm better at low volumes (~25% or lower) and 4ohm above that. The 8 sounds more dynamic at lower volumes, but too dynamic / harsh at higher volumes ONLY when compared to 4ohm. The 4 is so smooth at higher volumes. I could live with the 4 full time and may try the 2ohm when I want to push things further.

This chase is fun. Thanks again to everyone! I am humbled by the number of you who have taken time to post. 
Response from Bluesound:

MQA has two different “levels” (they call it unfolds) HALF UNFOLD (Software only - 24/96), and FULL UNFOLD (Software and Hardware - 24/192)

MQA requires communication (ie two way) with the DAC for FULL UNFOLD

If it (MQA) doesn’t know what the DAC is you can only get HALF UNFOLD (software only)

Via digital (Optical or COAX) there is no two way communication so you can only get HALF UNFOLD as the BluOS software will unfold the first half, but doesn’t know what DAC is connected

You can turn off the BluOS (software) unfold via the app for zero unfolding, and pass the raw data to the DAC -  This the best option if you have an MQA certified DAC, this will let the DAC do all the work, otherwise you’ll only get the first half

If you do not have an MQA DAC, you should use the Analogue outputs…. at least for MQA, but since the  NODE outputs both digital and analogue at the same time you can use a non-MQA DAC for everything except MQA content (if you want and the DAC is good enough to keep it in the system)

SO…

Analogue out = FULL MQA

Digital Out

Non MQA DAC = HALF MQA via digital

MQA DAC = FULL MQA (if you turn of the BluOS first unfold)