Klipsch Cornwall IV

I have my grills on.  I take them off now and then, but honestly, like you say, the speaker sounds great with them on and they look cool and the spousal acceptance factor is very high.  Very retro looking.  Is it a perfect speaker?  Is there a perfect speaker?   They are fun and mine are driven by an entirely tube setup that I built and they see about 64 watts/ch.   The amp really doesn't know they are connected.  Unlimited headroom.   The comment above on the bass is my take as well.  Good and quick until the mid 30's.   I just got a pair of Hsu uls-15 mk2 subs like Oz has and they provide the fill in below 40 Hz.  They hardly come on, but they definitely provide a nice fill.   It is a very good system and really, I don't need more.  Someday I might build an entirely new crossover with the same ODAM caps and the pathaudio resistors I used, but seek out better inductors.  I may rebuild the speaker terminals with something a little more convenient and just internally solder the HF leads so there is only one set of inputs.  I am not into bi-wiring.   Maybe I will get around to this stuff and maybe not.  Sounds great as it is.  I think the imaging grade of B+ was pretty accurate with the stock crossovers.   Putting much better caps in and better resistors brings them into the A range....

+1 Roxy and Donsachs.  I agree.  I think I'll stop on damping them--the horns and bass ports are good enough for now.  

I also like the sound with grills on.  

Donsachs, I completed a coupling cap upgrade to my amp and the CWIVs sound incredible. I cannot imagine how things will change when I do the crossovers.  I took a good investigative look when I was inside and I don't think the job is that bad.  I'm thinking silicone tape on the ODAMs would make me feel better about conductive properties. 

I agree on bass being somewhere in the mid 30s. I splurged for two REL T9is and, like you, they barely run.  The sound is massive, delicate, powerful when appropriate, and the voicing right now is eloquent. 

Like you, I don't biwire stuff. And I do think Klipsch could've done a touch better job on the connectors.  I had the same thought about making them a single input.  

A few crossover tips from a guy who did it and learned a lot from doing the first board so the second one is neater and cleaner:)   VCap ODAM caps have conductive bodies, so make sure the cap body cannot contact the leads or the inductors.  Some sort of insulating tape is good in just a few spots where it is tight.  The V in the VCap label points towards the output side of the cap.  Yes, they are non-polar and it really doesn't matter, but if you are being anal, that is the correct way.  I doubt you would hear a difference if they were all mixed up though.   Bend the leads with finger pressure, not a pliers.  Solder hot and fast, but you knew that.   I found it much easier to dry fit the caps, then put a small cable tie base and zip tie on the cap, dry fit again.  Then peel the paper off the base and I put some goop adhesive on the board where the cable tie base touches.  Then put the cap in and pull down gently to snug the cable tie base to board, solder leads.   I let the board dry for an hour or two before installing in the speaker and those caps will never move.   I also really felt the pathaudio resistors were a wonderful upgrade as well.  They removed the last trace of brightness.   With the VCap ODAM and the pathaudio resistors the speaker retains all the things you love about it, but there is more subtle detail and no brightness.  I twisted the drain wires of the resistor bodies together and ran them to the main Woofer "- " terminal, which is ground.   You just have to wait 50-100 hours for everything to run in, and you will think you have ruined the speaker for the first few minutes!  Just wait.....    

I never really understood Klipsh.  They could have spent $100-200 more per speaker and made them so much better.   The rear speaker terminals are not that great.  They look nice, but functionally... you can get good Chinese gold plated terminals for $10 a set or less that I would prefer.   The connection to the crossovers with the tabs rather than soldering.. well I understand.  Much faster to build and if you ever need to pull the crossover you would be swearing as you tried to unsolder the wire unless they left enough service loop so you could pull the assembly from the rear and do it from outside the speaker.  Right now I doubt you could as the wire from speaker terminals is pretty tight to the crossover.  If I change it all I will leave just enough wire that it could be done from outside.  You have a 10 ft run of speaker wire to the box, an extra 6 inches inside is not going to matter that much.   I have pulled the woofers three times and really don't want to do it again though.  The T nuts in MDF... you don't want to push it.

Great information Don!  Yes, I find the hardest part of the surgery to be the put back—placing things just so can be tricky and when done right it looks easy. Deceptively easy. 
Parts Connexion is out of one of the Path resistors I need. That will curb my spending for a bit longer!!