Vibration - What are the Main Sources?


A current thread discussing the best tweaks gave consistently high ranking for component isolation. I am curious to know where all the vibration is coming from that we are addressing with isolation. I understand that high volume listening can create significant vibration, but for the sake of this discussion let's assume we are listening at moderate levels. Can the vibrations from moderate sound levels affect the quality of sound? Are there other common significant sources of vibration that we are guarding against that can dramatically affect sound?
zlone
@zlone 
Vibration - What are the Main Sources?

On a professional level, a large part of my training and job was to identify and eliminate destructive vibrations in industrial machinery. Aside from the out of balance of any of the machinery's rotating component/components, the cause and affects are much the same as with audio - looseness or wear of any component which can creating a secondary vibration that transfers into and affects the performance of other components of the machinery and Internal and external forces that can excite or magnify a resonance through the machinery.
The solution/solutions are much the same - isolate from external forces and sources of vibration, firmly couple to a firm foundation (smaller mass to a larger mass) dampen flimsy component shells/cases (most good components are designed with hefty cases and anti vibration in mind) and tighten anything loose.

As mentioned most good speakers are designed to eliminate resonance from their cabinet and with the use of spikes or cones what little there is can be coupled into the much larger mass of a floor or foundation and the amount of isolating, coupling or dampening needed with the components will depend on everyones different environment, situation and taste.

With my Maggies, I dampen and weight the flimsy footers with decorative shot bags (speaker cabinet resonance is not a problem). My components I coupled to thick Black Walnut bases with brass cones and my TT I isolated with home made iso pads, composed of multiple layers of felt and rubber.
For me, the most reasonable and straight forward method of controlling vibration is usually the most cost effective and satisfying. This all works well for me and is as far as I care to take it. I have never been to a live concert or performance that sounded sterile and void and I have no desire to make my home system sound completely sterile and void.

We are all on our own journey, so experiment and go with what and how much works for you.
Happy listening....Jim




I am satisfied with my 190 lb. speakers resting on cone feet on 12" 3000 psi steel reinforced concrete floor. For seismic reasons, I don’t want to put them on any sprung or moving platform.

I am satisfied (couldn’t live with) my VPI TNT VI without the Townshend Seismic Sink (a bladder, analogous to a sprung platform). It works fantastically well for me.

I use Stillpoints on pre-amps, phono power controller, isolation transformer.  I use SR Mig SX footers under my EAR 890 amp.   My COS Engineering DAC D1 sounds best on it’s own custom feet with it’s superthick and heavy chassis.  My transport has a unique DIY solution, 3 1" ceramic marbles sitting on 1 1/8" rubber grommets.  Better than commercial footers.  Why, I don't know.  Friends use them under their CD players as well.

Then there are airborne vibrations which are treated with Synergistic Research HFTs (36 on room walls and speakers) and two pair of Hallographs. The room is isolated through 16" thick custom engineered sound walls (with built in bass traps made of chambered activated charcoal), no openings (2 17" doors of same construction).

Vibrations are a way of life. I don’t worry about those that I haven’t treated.
190 lbs on points will move, that is way to light.. Add 200-250 to the top, then on springs...Mass load then spring load!! Getting close now..

Serious BASS in my shop. A speaker on spikes with any width to any side would be dancing across the floor.. Especially a wide front baffle. A round, ocular or convex tapered baffle design would work. A telephone pole would work..

I was tinkering yesterday on a pair of 24x24x60 bass boxed without drivers they are 220 or so..
125 lbs in drivers 350 or more.. Then load the 2" top shelf with 200 lbs or so. STILL on springs...

I was rethinking 21" HE subs with 2 18" passives. I want to try Daytons new 21" subs for the shop..
REAL BAD!! Get ready for Halloween... 

Regards
I tried mass loading the top with 60 lb steel plates.  Robbed the life out of the speakers.  Others had similar experience.  3-12" woofers per speaker, plenty of bass down to 25 Hz in a 19'6" X 15' X 10' room.   I don't want any more bass than I have as it is tuned with HFTs and balanced with the mids and highs.
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