DIY cables question

I’d recommend re terminating your cable but don’t solder the ends.

Strip the ends back mechanically join the strands together.

Split the number of strands in 1/2, then 1/2 them again. Twist all 4 equal parts clockwise. Then join two of the 4 and twist them clockwise. Then take the two that were made from 4 and twist them clockwise holding the base of the wire VERY tight.

You are ready to insert the wire into the terminal end. Dip or treat the bare end of the wire after you’ve joined it with contact enhancer.

I use red copper, copper, gold plated copper or silver plated copper terminal ends with Allen head set screws and red Loctite. No brass, rhodium, nickel or any of that.. GOOD terminal ends..

The same way with crimped cable terminal ends. They requires a tool to crimp it or a hammer die.. Either is fine. Armor and shrink tube.... Cold welding though has it’s qualities. Very tough to beat..

That is the professional way to make speaker cables. You can "tin" the end, but tinning is NOT soldering NOR does it effect the wire end the same way if it’s "TINNED" correctly. Bare wire (with enhancers) has the better signature in my opinion.. "Key to the kingdom" "Pearls" my friend..

Then buy someone else’s JUNK and compare it yours..

Borrow someone super duper cables and compare.. You might be surprised.

Never under estimate what you can learn...

Regards

To make a good solder joint first the parts to be joined must be absolutely clean to shiny bare metal. Then crimped or joined together mechanically to the point the connection is secure and done. Finally, heat with the iron from one side until heat flows through melting the solder which is held on the other side of the joint so that the heat draws the solder through. Use a quality solder such as Cardas Quad Eutetic rosin core solder. 

How bad can a bad solder joint be? I had one channel gradually deteriorate to the point it was intermittently cutting out. This was eventually tracked down to a very expensive professionally built RCA that had a cold solder joint. 

Soldering is just one aspect of DIY, and not even the most important one. Every single bit of the wire affects the sound. If making a professional quality cable was as easy as soldering connectors on the end of wire off a spool rest assured someone would have discovered this and be doing it. The profit margins guarantee it. Forget everything else, this one simple fact is all the proof anyone should need to know DIY cables are a good way to go only for people who enjoy building DIY cables. 

I tried, and had a friend who tried for 30 years. Dismal failure. I know precisely one exception, and Lubos is making $5k cables for $2500, $20k for $10k. 

Unless you are Lubos I highly recommend you take whatever your budget is and research and buy some good used and professionally made cables. Synergistic is my go-to in your price range. My bet is you will be staggered how much better they are. 

Good learning experience and for the cost of some terminal ends. Try them my way. Try them MCs way.. You’ll like one way more. I like no solder. BUT soldered ends are tough to pull apart.

The better way over both is to cold weld or use a hammer dye.. 10-20 tons with heavy hammer strikes. LOL They don’t come loose and they don’t grow green when you use enhancers.. Graphite dust is perfect.
Ops! another pearl.. Keep going I’ll show you just how to make a 10k cable.. for 300 dollars or so and some sore fingers. Signature wooden blocks are optional for an additional 100.00 usd

I have a cable or two. "The Clydesdale", "The Mule" and "The Donkey"
My creations.. Pony series are speaker cables.. NO I don’t share. BUT weaves and ribbons sure work well TOGETHER. hint hint!! ops! another pearl!!

Viborg, remember that name, it did something special for my MB columns. A helix twist in a clear air tube, Ops another pearl!! OFC copper to boot.. They have an OCC and a tinned version too (not a big fan only on bonding).

I rewired some Rythmik (GRs mod) servo plates for a OB servo speaker set up.. It made a LOT of difference. Two different people modified the plates you could see it in the workmanship.

I made them the same (visually) and voiced them differently than the factory.. SC OCC copper with PTFE in a few spots.. I did that 30 days or so ago. Man that did make a difference, really lighten my pocket book.. LOL.

I also checked how the wire was pulled through the dye, OPS that was a big one and then conditioned 4 spools of wire and some SC lengths for 21 days on a cooker..

HOW you do your work is just a mater of practice. BUT I’ll bet if you look at someone do it correctly you could walk over and do the same thing..

BTW handle your cables like they could be broken and they won’t get broken.. I handle cable with extreme care.. Antistatic bags. ZERO compromise there.. Off the floor. The longer they work the better they sound.. LEAVE them alone..

QUIT worrying and do it.. :-)

THEN borrow or rent some fancy cables to compare with.. It’s fun!!

Regards

The best sounding connector is no connector.  Just go bare wire into your binding posts and forget about termination.

^^^^^^ Good Post ^^^^^^

If practicable silver solder in place