Is There a Way to Lessen Vibration On Cables From Powered Speakers

@tomic601

I have discovered it also happens on the Passive speaker as well. So it seems to me more indicative of the driver. However, the amp plate is what is vibrating and not the entire cabinet, which is interesting.

@ghasley

I hadn't considered dismantling the speaker, although that makes sense.  I would have to be super careful as the design of the box is situated to take the air generated and use it to cool the amp. I seem to recall in a different group where people dismantled the Audioquest Nighthawk to remove paper and cotton dampening that was used to roll off high frequencies. If I add dampening, would it threaten the speaker's ability to produce high frequencies?

@millercarbon

I be darned! Getting the cables as close to a 45 degree angle from its connector certainly diminishes the vibration and stops the vibration from continuing down the cable! O_O.

Thanks! 

The power cable was the easiest to orient at 45 degrees and wa-la, no vibration whatsoever.

Going to have to rethink how things are wired on desk......

is that better or just different?

@gaukus
I'm suggesting that you dismantle and maybe add a MINIMAL continuos bead blu tak or map putty....it will work like a gasket or weatherstripping. I would not, as you correctly point out, stuff anything inside. You want to dampen vibration which will help the speaker do its thing. A little goes a long way. Additionally the putty will expand when you tighten the screws...

Im not sure how many people here have heard the audioengine speakers but I have a pair that I used for many years in a workstation setup. They punch waaaay above their weightclass. Good luck and best wishes.

First get the angles and path figured out as best you're able. Then figure out how to suspend all the cables so they are free to bounce and move. Easiest way I know is to stretch a rubber band across something so the cable lays on it kind of like a hammock. Look at mine on my system page. Hard to get a camera angle but the cable lays on the rubber band not touching the ceramic insulator at all, and if you tap it will bounce freely. This works so well I have done demos where people can hear the effect from removing just one of these. Ceramic is probably best but people have gone as cheap as cardboard and still heard improvement.  

Remember, once you get the angles right like you did then free unrestrained movement (aka, isolation) is the key.