I have completed my pump replacement and in the spirit of this thread would like to contribute back some tips and advice. First, thanks go the @decibell and @fred_s for their contributions that were of great assistance!
To begin, I have the Pro version; however, I do not believe any of this advice changes across the other versions. I experienced a pump failure after about 300 records mostly washed for 5min cycles and I started with a used machine that was claimed to have washed less than 200 records. This cannot be confirmed but in my case, I have installed a digital counter that I use to keep track of my use.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If your pump stops working, it can be for one of 3 causes:
1. The pump is not getting 24v,
2. The pump is electrically shorted or open,
3. The pump is jammed or physically stuck.
Now the first two can be checked without any disassembly except for 4 screws to remove the control panel as seen in this picture:
https://imgur.com/S7KfXK7.
To test for #1, use a multimeter set on DC Volts and measure across the Red/Black or Blue/Brown wires with them still plugged in and the machine starting its wash cycle. You can insert probe tips between the square release buttons and the inserted connector. If you get 24v DC then you know the board is doing the right thing.
To test for #2, unplug the machine and using the tip of your probe remove one of the pump wires by pressing it on the associated square button. Then change your meter setting to Ohms and measure between the free connector and the still attached one. You should see a reading between 20 and 100 ohms. In my case it was >100K ohms indicating that the pump had electrically failed. It is also possible you will read <1 ohms which indicates a short. In both cases the pump heeds replacing.
For #3 there is a possibility that this can be handled externally depending on the pump style installed. The intake of the pump is on the same side as the drain hole. If you have a pump that has its impeller on the bottom such as this Comet one: https://imgur.com/WExNAOb, then you may be able to clean it out using a small bottle brush working it under the raised intake. On the other hand, if you have a pump like this: https://imgur.com/J3uTwTw, (which I had) this is not likely to work as it needs to be disassembled to get to the impeller.
PUMP REPLACEMENT
I used the same technique that was described in this thread. Note that the glue holding the bottom of my unit was not flexible, and I needed a stiff putty knife whose blade was part of the handle so that I could use a hammer/mallet to break through the bonds.
Once I had the bottom cut open, I noticed a significant accumulation of gunk on it. This informed me that as part of my change water task, I should use a drain-hole inserted brush to keep this from building up.
The Comet pump I used was the one in the picture above as I could not find a replacement for the original one and it had no identifiable markings. I feel its important not to use one whose flow is too great for two reasons. First, it may pull too much current which could cause the driver circuit to fail on the board. Second, its important that the pump rate is not so great that it evacuates the water quicker than it can be returned via the filter. Therefore 10 l/m appears to be a good target.
To connect the pump I cut about an inch off the existing hose which allowed the pump to be mount vertically and attach to the side with DAP Gutter Sealant. I was not able to source the specialized connectors so I soldered a splice of the original ones as you see in the first picture. Make sure the colors align.
To re-glue the tank bottom, I used a marine 2-part epoxy which has great fill properties and allowed for sanding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO0YQU?th=1. Finally, I used the sealant to attach the bottom plate.
OPERATIONAL TIPS
Having gone through this experience and now fully understanding how this machine works, I am modifying my use of it as follows:
1. Recognizing that the pump runs the entire washing cycle time, I am ensuring that I keep to a 50% duty cycle. during any 30 minute session.
2. I pay particular attention to not overfilling as the underside is not totally sealed. For example, the fan wiring holes are open to liquid.
3. When changing the water, I will also do a brush out of the bottom as preventative maintenance.
I hope the above is found useful.
To begin, I have the Pro version; however, I do not believe any of this advice changes across the other versions. I experienced a pump failure after about 300 records mostly washed for 5min cycles and I started with a used machine that was claimed to have washed less than 200 records. This cannot be confirmed but in my case, I have installed a digital counter that I use to keep track of my use.
TROUBLESHOOTING
If your pump stops working, it can be for one of 3 causes:
1. The pump is not getting 24v,
2. The pump is electrically shorted or open,
3. The pump is jammed or physically stuck.
Now the first two can be checked without any disassembly except for 4 screws to remove the control panel as seen in this picture:
https://imgur.com/S7KfXK7.
To test for #1, use a multimeter set on DC Volts and measure across the Red/Black or Blue/Brown wires with them still plugged in and the machine starting its wash cycle. You can insert probe tips between the square release buttons and the inserted connector. If you get 24v DC then you know the board is doing the right thing.
To test for #2, unplug the machine and using the tip of your probe remove one of the pump wires by pressing it on the associated square button. Then change your meter setting to Ohms and measure between the free connector and the still attached one. You should see a reading between 20 and 100 ohms. In my case it was >100K ohms indicating that the pump had electrically failed. It is also possible you will read <1 ohms which indicates a short. In both cases the pump heeds replacing.
For #3 there is a possibility that this can be handled externally depending on the pump style installed. The intake of the pump is on the same side as the drain hole. If you have a pump that has its impeller on the bottom such as this Comet one: https://imgur.com/WExNAOb, then you may be able to clean it out using a small bottle brush working it under the raised intake. On the other hand, if you have a pump like this: https://imgur.com/J3uTwTw, (which I had) this is not likely to work as it needs to be disassembled to get to the impeller.
PUMP REPLACEMENT
I used the same technique that was described in this thread. Note that the glue holding the bottom of my unit was not flexible, and I needed a stiff putty knife whose blade was part of the handle so that I could use a hammer/mallet to break through the bonds.
Once I had the bottom cut open, I noticed a significant accumulation of gunk on it. This informed me that as part of my change water task, I should use a drain-hole inserted brush to keep this from building up.
The Comet pump I used was the one in the picture above as I could not find a replacement for the original one and it had no identifiable markings. I feel its important not to use one whose flow is too great for two reasons. First, it may pull too much current which could cause the driver circuit to fail on the board. Second, its important that the pump rate is not so great that it evacuates the water quicker than it can be returned via the filter. Therefore 10 l/m appears to be a good target.
To connect the pump I cut about an inch off the existing hose which allowed the pump to be mount vertically and attach to the side with DAP Gutter Sealant. I was not able to source the specialized connectors so I soldered a splice of the original ones as you see in the first picture. Make sure the colors align.
To re-glue the tank bottom, I used a marine 2-part epoxy which has great fill properties and allowed for sanding https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO0YQU?th=1. Finally, I used the sealant to attach the bottom plate.
OPERATIONAL TIPS
Having gone through this experience and now fully understanding how this machine works, I am modifying my use of it as follows:
1. Recognizing that the pump runs the entire washing cycle time, I am ensuring that I keep to a 50% duty cycle. during any 30 minute session.
2. I pay particular attention to not overfilling as the underside is not totally sealed. For example, the fan wiring holes are open to liquid.
3. When changing the water, I will also do a brush out of the bottom as preventative maintenance.
I hope the above is found useful.