Tonearm for Technics SP-15


I have a Technics SP-15 turntable with a Grace 707 arm and a Grace F9E cartridge with a Soundsmith new stylus.  This combination sounds great but is limiting.  The 707  tonearm has a fixed headshell and it does not allow me to easily swap other MM  high compliance catridges or match compliance requirments MC cartridges.  Suggestions welcome from those more expert than I.  

arneama22

Dear @arneama22  : Your Grace is very good tonearm, yes not so easy to change cartridges as tonearms with removable headshells. You can find out a Grace 1040 that's really good removable headshell design.

 

Btw, @billwojo you are rigth about Technics tonearms and the EPA 250 that I still own is even superior to the EPA 100.

 

The 250 comes with 3 different arm wands and with the same VTA unique mechanism made it with the EPA 100-MK2 that's that VTA mechanism the best ever made in any tonearms including today top models.

 

Here with the SP-15 OP one:

 

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,

R.

Most of the arms I see, if not obviously broken (shattered/missing balls), will typically present with at east one pitted ball in a bearing. These can seem to work fine until that pit works its way around to the running surface of the race or pivot, at which point the bearing is ’loose’ with play. It’s also typical for there to be fine detritus in the bearing increasing friction.

Half the time on seemingly good arms I find indentations from the balls in the pivot surface. These surfaces need to be re-ground and polished out for best performance, or the arm will tend to have resting positions when the balls rotate around to fit in the indentations. Usually because of the detritus in the bearing the friction is high enough that this condition isn’t obvious from obersvation.

The silicon nitride balls I use have better roundness and surface finish and a lower friction coefficient than the original rubies. This makes the outstanding bearings in these arms just a bit better.

With these arms, even in poor condition relative to their potential, the performance is beyond most contemporaries. This is to say that people don’t realize they’re leaving performance on the table. If your EPA-100 is nearly impossible to get to hold balance and moves around on air currents in a seemingly completely still room, then there’s an excellent chance it’s still in great shape. If not, it could be a lot better.

EDIT: Nearly forgot - on all of them with original wiring the insulation has reacted with the copper causing a good deal of corrosion and fragility.

If your EPA-100 is nearly impossible to get to hold balance and moves around on air currents in a seemingly completely still room, then there’s an excellent chance it’s still in great shape. If not, it could be a lot better.

Yeah, I remember this, they are moving like crazy during cartridge set-up.

Can you comment on EPA-100 mkII @jpjones3318 ?

 

@chakster The 100MK2, while similar, has a noteable difference.  The bearing pivots on the 100 are spring-loaded and hard-chromed.  The 100MK2 uses the same pivots as the B500 which are not hard-chromed nor spring-loaded.  The spring-loading doesn't serve any practical purpose.  The pivots can be surfaced and polished to perform at the level that can be achieved with the EPA-100 but aren't quite there as-deliverd.  They're also more prone to corrosion. 

A bit more than double the VTA range which is nice.  CW and AS are the same, and on the MK2 it's easier to tailor cables as they're RCA rather than DIN.  Wtih some TLC they very nicely.

I believe the Japanese generally prefer the original, and it certainly as a more traditional feel to it.  My daily driver is a B500 with surfaced and polished pivots and Si3N4 balls for 100-level performance with the conveniend of detachable armwands.  Once used to it, the ergonmics of the 100MK2/B500 is really nice.