Need Help Designing a Dream Room


The company I work for got acquired and I'm moving to the new headquarters in Charlotte. We're having no luck finding an existing home meeting our unusual needs (smaller house since we are almost empty nesters, but big listening room on the first floor), so we're building a new home. Hot dog! I finally get to design a dream room!

I'm not an audio engineer, so all I know (and it might be wrong) is that one should use the 1.618 ratio rule. Therefore, I am planning on a family room which is 11x18x29 (nothing is set though). The floors will be hardwood (my wife, who is generous, gracious and loving enough to go through this process instead of buying a perfectly fine regular house, insists on the flooring). I have very large speakers: Montana KAS's. I love many kinds of music: Jazz, blues, classical and rock.

How should I design this room? Separate electrical box? Dimensions? Materials? Rounded corners? This will open into the kitchen and eating area (separate rooms) so we can enjoy the music there as well. Thanks in advance. I look forward to your advice.
ozfly
Ozfly,

I won't comment on Albertporter's or AVDcreations' recommendations on what to do. From previous posts, Albertproter has a room envied by many AudiogoNers, past and present.

However, both Sean and Albertporter have good thoughts on HOW. It is way cheaper to do things now than to put in something that is only half of what you want with the plan to "make it right" later. Besides, you never will. Most of the construction improvements will cost hardly more than the material upgrades if planned for now. Things like 1-1/2" thick subflooring or conduits run through the slab will be prohibitively expensive or impossible if not done now.

Also, please listen to Albertporter when he suggests that you carefully supervise the plans. Supervise the construction closely, also. There will be plenty of places for a contractor to cut corners with the unusual specifications that a sound room like this wil have. From the new construction I've seen recently, contractors cut corners on normal stuff already. For example, if your final design calls for laminating three layers of sheet rock on all the walls, you'll have to make sure that the contractor uses glue between the layers. If he's not watched, chances are he won't.

I hope I haven't offended any members who are contractors. This has been my previous experience.
Sean, Kelly, Albert -- thank you very much for your responses. You are most kind in taking the time to lay out your thoughts. Alexander (I assume), thank you for your comments as well and for reaffirming the suggestions that I seek professional help -- my wife has recommended that for years, but that's another story;-) I have heard that you don't want too much reflection or uneven (frequency wise) absorption but don't know enough about the properties of drywall to comment. A friend of mine once built a small sound studio surrounded by sand bags, but my wife would frown on that. Albert is correct that my only purpose is for stereo as my more modest surround sound system is in another room. I'll check out the options for home acoustics experts, but please keep the suggestions coming. Thanks.
There are no absolute rules in acoustic design. You can ask five different acoustic engineers the same question and get five different answers. On the surface this may appear confusing, but if you dig deeper, you'll find that each engineer has a design philosophy. Each element of the room and the reproduction equipment are designed to synergistically interact in in accordance with that design philosophy. You can get into trouble if you mix and match individual design elements from different engineers. If you decide to get professional acoustic engineering help, you will need to determine the engineers philosophy and make sure it's compatible with your goals.

The issue of surface rigidity is complex. In general, for home music reproduction rigid, but not overy rigid construction is best. Some wall flexibility can lessen standing wave problems. This will give you flexibility if in the future you switch to a different speaker with different low frequency tuning. In pro studios hyper-rigid wall construction is preferred. In a studio every element of the system is optimized to work together. The engineer knows exactly what speaker will be used, where it will be positioned and where the listner will sit. It's optimized, but it's somewhat inflexible.
Ozfly, there are two completely different issues being discussed. Reflection treatment and good building procedures. The two do effect each other, but flimsy construction is not the correct way to control overly dynamic or flashy musical reproduction.

Light weight construction allows various materials to move and vibrate, competing with your speakers. This not only effects bandwidth, but the solidity of the imaging and soundstage as well.

Secure, solid walls will reinforce bass frequencies rather than allowing them to "pass through" to other areas. If the bass is too much with good solid walls, bass traps are the proper cure, not transparent walls.

I plan on building my room as solid as possible, and then treat the interior walls with several acoustic materials. Below are two sites that provide some of the material I plan to use on the ceiling and the two long walls. This is in addition to RPG panels, Tube Traps and mechanical isolation devices.

If you consider that using the Whisper Walls treatment, you can avoid the expense of tape, bed, texture and paint. Removing the contractors expenses for these materials will offset the expense of this acoustic treatment. These materials are designed specifically to improve listening. Again, best of luck.

http://www.owenscorning.com/around/sound/acoustic.html

http://www.soundcontrol.com/whisper.htm
Lots of good advice here already, but as I quickly scanned it I didn't see anyone advising you to read books by F. Alton Everest, "Master Handbook of Acoustics" 4th edition, and especially "Sound Studio Construction on a Budget". The latter book has tons of useful sound treatment information and ideas for construction too. He and Robert Harley agree that nonparallel walls, while they achieve their goal, are not the only, or even the best, way to achieve that goal. Since the bad effects of parallel walls are quite easy to eliminate by inside wall treatment, I wouldn't contemplate that mode of construction, which I wouldn't trust many contractors to pull off. Good luck!