I am enjoying my analog system, but what can I do to improve?


I currently have Technics 1200G turntable with Dynavector 17XD cartridge playing through Kitsune LCR 1 MK5 phono pre and Allnic L7000 preamp. My amps are Pass X350.5 and Benchmark AHB2 driving Sound Lab ESL speakers. My system sounds great, but I am wondering how I can take my system to another level. What do you think?

128x128chungjh

Dear @qwin  : Unfortunatelly specs sheets don't " sounds " by it self.

 

The new Technics motor is a total departure from what Technics did it  in the past including the SP-10MK3. The new motor is coreless design and this improves the quality performance as it does the magnesium used in the tonearm arm wand.

 

Again, different " looks like " TTs.

 

R.

@rauliruegas 

I can appreciate there are differences in the motors, the start up torque is higher on the new one, but start up time is exactly the same. Basic speed stability, wow and flutter is no better (worse). The literature talks about cogging, everyone knows this was marketing hype by the belt drive brigade to try and undermine specs they couldn't compete with, when DD first appeared. Technics seem to have jumped on this as a way of promoting the new motor. But basic common sense tells you, they could not achieve such high levels of speed stability and wow/flutter figures if cogging was real thing. As for the arm, they changed from one alloy to another for the tube, same plastic yoke and crude fixing method, whoopy do.
Sorry, we'll just have to disagree on this, for me the price tag is just way to high and the attempts to talk up the spec just don't stand scrutiny.
Its a good deck, always was, but you soon hit a performance ceiling when trying to upgrade and you need to jump ship to improve further.
All my opinion of course, but that's what was asked for.

I'm sure the OP will take all opinions into account and make his own mind up.

This is off track from the question of how he can improve what he has.

qwin, I cannot comment on differences in sound quality between an SL1200 Mk2 and the 1200G series, but do bear in mind that there are several variants of the G series, to include the G, GR, GAE, and lord knows what else, and that the low end of the line costs around $1700, not by any means a high price for a very fine turntable. Furthermore, the build quality of the G series is just much higher than that of the SL1200 Mk2 and its siblings. The motor is completely different; it is a coreless motor of much higher quality than that of the original. Coreless motors have much lower propensity for cogging or have no cogging, depending upon who builds it and how its built. (But I am not claiming that the SL1200 Mk2 has an audible problem with cogging. Like you, I doubt that it does.) The chassis and platter of the G series is also sturdier and much better damped than that of the SL1200 series. So, you are free to hold any opinion about how one sounds vs the other, but there are important upgrades in the G series that are not trivial. In my opinion, it was a bad marketing decision for Technics to make the G series look so much like the SL1200 series, if for no other reason than that it promotes the delusion that the two turntables must be similar in performance, specs notwithstanding.

Has anyone directly compared MK3 with 1200G? MK3 has better specs and a more powerful motor, can you really hear a CLEAR improvement in a blind- fold test?

Am I missing something? what's the big thing about the new Coreless motor.

All the Technics DD turntables are Coreless are they not?

They have produced many variants on different models over the years.

Where is this extra build quality people are talking about?

Not in the motor build, not in the platter, not in the bearing, not in the arm. These items are of similar construction.

They made minor changes to what was a well respected deck to justify the higher price when re-launched. Take any of the elements and do a side by side comparison. Although we are told it is better quality, re designed from the ground up, there are no meaningful details of any of the upgrades. Look at the two main bearings, exactly the same principle and crappy sheet metal plate supporting the thrust pad. They stuck a brass sheet on top of the platter, many people use Copper.
I'm not saying the late models aren't slightly better sounding than the earlier ones, just put things in perspective, they are very similar construction and performance from what I've heard. Never heard a like for like comparison in the same set up, but I've not had my socks blown off by the latest models when I've heard them hooked up to decent kit.

I think that's all I've got to say on the subject, people can make up their own minds. But in terms of design and build quality, I would prefer a good used SP10 any day of the week.