Power Conditioner/Surge Protector Options


I know it’s not cables, but be I consider the discussion relevant snake oil to cables!…lol

Is there any reason why a Triplite LCR2400 shouldn’t perform just as competently as say an Audioquest Niagara or Furman Elite 15PFi?!

Tripp Lite LCR2400 Line Conditioner 2400W AVR Surge 120V 20A 60Hz 14 Outlet 12-Feet Cd https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000514M8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0FVTE3YCY640SF8E64EC

I’m mostly interested in responses that have some scientific backing rather than your personal experiences (unless you are an EE, etc.). TIA!

boostedis
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That is why I prefer to turn to a scientific explanation of the technology and why it works rather than just saying that it does and you should take a $2-5K leap of faith!

I agree, but if a products achieves a scientific benchmark but doesn’t give you the sound improvements you’re looking for, then what’s the point? I’d suggest reading reviews of Niagara, Audience, Synergistic, Shunyata, etc. and go with the one that seems to match best wit your sonic preferences. They’re all great, so choose based on what you’re looking for. I bought a used Audience AR1p and plugged a Wiremold power strip into it for my HeadFi setup and am really happy although I don’t have separation between digital and analog components, which is important, but then I had to pick my financial battles. Best of luck.

@steakster  I was talking independently about surge protection and power conditioning.

Anything in the power line to protect from surges will degrade sound and will limit the KVA demand from power amplifiers. High transient current demand from power amps will decrease voltage if it's restricted. Current up, voltage down. That's why sometimes the lights in your house will dim because the voltage is low.

A voltage regulator cannot maintain correct voltage if it doesn't have a big torroidial transformer to back it up. That's why strip power conditioners/surge protectors need to be fed from a power supply if you are using them with amps.

I only use Class A-A/B amps if you're using Class D or 5w tube amps this doesn't apply.

@lordmelton, that’s not quite right. The lights dip as the capacitors charge and then come back. If the lights dim then stay dim, that’s a different story. Nelson Pass addresses this in one of his papers. The current isn’t usually an issue in most households with typical class A or A/B amps. Monster amps can hit the line hard, but for the most part they are not the norm. It’s how “clean” the power is that is the problem. Again, if your lights are dimming during playback that’s a problem. But highly unlikely in typical households. The reason to use a dedicated line has some validity to current, but really it’s to clean up the circuit of unwanted noise producers.