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How to choose an upgraded tonearm.

In two recent threads on selecting an upgraded cartridge, some of you suggested a new tonearm was in order. Since I’ve never chosen a new tonearm, I’m asking you all for some advice on how to do so for that future event.

My current turntable is a VPI Classic 2 with a VPI JMW 10.5i unipivot tonearm. A new Lyra Kleos MC cartridge is on order. I’ll likely be changing to a gimbal style tonearm. The rest of the system is Magico A3 speakers, a Luxman 507uX MkII integrated amp, a Marants Ruby CD player, and a Shunyata Hydra Denali power conditioner.

What price range should an appropriate tonearm for the Lyra Kleos be in, that would also be in keeping with the price point of my Classic 2, The Classic 2 was in the $3-4,000 range, as is the Lyra Kleos. I’ll be purchasing new, not used, and will not be upgrading any other equipment than the tonearm.

Pardon some rookie questions, but what attributes should I be looking for in a quality tonearm? Who are some of the better known manufacturers, and which models of theirs might be workable? Are there other alternative to either a gimbal or unipvot tonearm? Are tonearms generally interchangeable between different manufacturers turntables? And what improvements in sound quality might be gained by upgrading my tonearm?

Since this is all new to me, any other advice you might have about things to consider would be greatly appreciated and will help kick off my research. Thanks,

Mike

skyscraper
pindac's avatar
pindac
2,864 posts
 

Throughout the Years, I have had owned Tonearms mounted on a host of materials.

The list might be of interest to the OP.

Note: it is not really possible to carry out an A/B assessment of a TT with differing Plinth and Tonearm Mounting Materials, the recollections are usually made from the knowledge that a presentation was an enjoyed experience and happily lived with and the overall impression made will have been a subjective evaluation. 

Man made materials produced from organic plant based waste materials, i.e, Plinth Top Plates made from Chipboard and MDF, commonly seen in use today, for the economical solution they offer.

Man made materials produced using dedicated purpose produced organic materials, i.e,  Birch Plywood 650Kg per cubic metre, MU 25 Birch Plywood 750Kg per cubic metre, I have Panzerholz and Permali to be tried at 1400Kg per cubic metre, used today, but will most likely be found as a Bespoke produced Plinth.

Man made materials produced from stone and resin being Corian, used today, but will most likely be found as a Bespoke produced Plinth.

Man made materials produced from metal,  Aluminium and Lead, Brass and other Metal Alloy, used today, Aluminium is the most common to be found, but in general will most likely be found as a Bespoke produced Plinth or Ancillary part to be added to a plinth.

Natural Materials such as Granite, used today, but will most likely be found as a Bespoke produced Plinth. 

It is not so much the material that is used for the Tonearm support that is the concern when in use, they all can sound quite satisfactory, if the TT's mounting is adequately prepared for.

Working with the heaviest materials takes extra thought to achieve a adequate mounting.

The concern is whether the material used to mount the Tonearm is stable throughout the year as the system is exposed to environment changes.

When the movement that I referred to earlier, that has been detected in a TT's Platter Spindle Bearings is considered, the stability of the Tonearm Mounting material when met with a play in a spindle bearing becomes an insignificant concern, as there are other mechanical interfaces needing to be addressed. 

A Standalone Pod, with a Tonearm mounted upon it, when sharing a Sub Plinth produced from a stable property material, and used on a TT, with a correctly functioning platter spindle bearing, will in my view be a very acceptable interface.

It would in my mind, be a more trusted mechanical function, than one that has a concentric rotating spindle on TT with a Tonearm attached to the Plinth.       

imhififan's avatar
imhififan
2,208 posts
 

I’m not going to take a chance on doing any type of modification to the table of my VPI Classic 2.

How about an outboard armpod and transform your table to dual arm setup?

https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/outboard-armpod-project-for-sme-30-12-turntable.29517/

pindac's avatar
pindac
2,864 posts
 

 

I’m sure VPI have been giving the idea of a Stand Alone Pod some thought as well.

skyscraper OP
831 posts
 

Pindac, thank you again for your input and suggestions. And thanks to the link to the VPI stand alone. I’ll ask them about that when I call. them It’s amazing the amount all of you know..

Imififan- I’m going to have to research those Acoustand Tonearm Pods Nice picture. Thanks.

Anybody know how those VPI gimballed Fatboys compare to any other tonearms in the $4500 price range. There are not a lot of reviews to be found, or used ones to be found either. I’m usually afraid to buy used, but am equally afraid of the poorhouse.

Mike

lewm
13,165 posts
 

"It’s amazing the amount all of you know.."
It’s also amazing the amount all of us don’t know. Like why an outboard pod is not advisable, especially the pods shown in those photos. I don’t argue that it cannot be done well, but the doer must be someone who understands the potential problems. In my opinion, it is not a good idea for your first venture away from standard. If you watched the video provided by Mijostyn, pay special attention to the discussion and views shown of the underside of the AR XA chassis, with the T-shaped heavy metal brace that links the tonearm pivot to the bearing. The narrator discusses the significance of that idea; you don’t want the tonearm and the bearing to be independent of one another structurally or in terms of how external forces affect them.

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