Looking for pure copper or Cu/Au bananas


Hello friends,

Trying to order a new set of DIY speaker cables. I have most of the connectors but need to order two pairs to replace bad Furutech bananas.

The requirements:

  • Solid copper or gold over copper. Absolutely NO brass core.
  • Screw down wire connections.  No soldering
  • Either fully insulated or easy to insulate, so nothing with a metal housing.
  • Less than $80

Suggestions?

erik_squires

A note on heatshrink.  Not all heat shrink are created equally.  I have used some pretty horrible heatshrink that wrinkles and kinks when shrunk.  The end result looks like absolutely crap.  The Polyolefin 3:1 heatshrink from Sonic Craft is really nice.  I'm sure many other places have good heatshrink.

The heavy duty adhesive lined heatshrink can be used, but keep in mind that if you ever want to remove those banana plugs, the adhesive lined heatshrink is going to be a pain to remove and it's going to leave a glue film on the metal/cable.  For instances where I want a heavier duty heatshrink, I just use two heatshrink tubes to provide a double-wall (one on top of the other).

Good point on Sonic Craft! Great source.

I use a heat gun to remove the adhesive lined heat shrink pretty easily with no mess. Cut a slit being careful not to gouge the connector barrel and then apply heat. The shrink separates and pulls away. Let it cool a little, then pull the rest off with minimal residue. Sometimes none!

I also agree on the Sonic Craft heat shrink.

I like Furutech XLR connectors, both chassis and plugs. I would also not hesitate to use Vampire chassis connectors. I have made many cables using the expensive Furutech 601/602 connectors but more recently I have been just as happy with cables I have made using Vampire and/or DH Labs (which appear to be Vampire) XLR connectors. The money I spent on the 601/602 connectors was probably overkill. Vampire’s upscale Xhadow connectors should also be very good, if you want to spend more money. Do not use Cardas chassis connectors (they break IME).  Neutrik of course is an industry standard and can be found on moderately to expensively priced cables and/or equipment.

I have found that the Neutrik XLR gold-plated connectors are pretty good on resolution and speed (i.e. they are not warm and slow), but they have a dirty sound, almost like a distortion.  The Furutech XLR are the best I have used -- the gold-plated are very smooth and clean but very warm and slow (if you like this type of sound, they are excellent).  The Furutech rhodium is high resolution and transparent (although requires a very long burn in period). 

I have only used Oyaide Focus XLR connectors on digital AES/EBU cables, but they ended up being the absolute best for a digital cable application (better then gold/rhodium Furutech).  The Oyaide XLR had the best resolution and provided a neutral uncolored character (for digital cable).  I don't know how they would sound on an analog cable.

@mitch2 - Mitch, if you are talking about the Cardas 3455R power cord connectors, I completely agree.  The shell case pretty much breaks off as soon as you touch it.  I had to glue several of these together once they were put on.  Total waste of money, and the Furutech FI-15 (R) series is much better and more durable.  However, I cannot see how the Cardas XLR connectors would "break".  They are a solid metal pieces that thread onto each other.  I refuse to even try their new expensive E-5 plugs because Furutech FI-15(R) are so good and about a quater of the price.  Can you explain more on what Cardas items actually break?

I have used the Cardas binding posts on several occasions with excellent results.  I like them because they are a heavy piece of metal with easy mounting capability if you use their BPMP mounting plate.  The sound on the rhodium/silver models are very good and I would say the Cardas connectors are a "poor man's Furutech".  They are billet copper alloy, but also plated with rhodium/silver.  About half the cost of Furutech XLR connectors.