Solid State Phono Stages


I used to be an all-tube guy, but I’ve now ventured into the realm of high-end solid state with T+A and no longer have any itch to go back heavily into tubes. Now, the only tubes I have left in my system are in my Modwright PH9.0X phono, and from what I’ve demoed against it, it seems to be a giant killer. I do love it, but I’m curious to try a higher end solid state phono stage to see what more noise and more music might sound like. Unfortunately T+A does not have a standalone phono stage, so I’m looking at other manufacturers and open to other opinions.

I currently have a Clearaudio Innovation Wood table and Air Tight PC-1s cartridge. i listen to a wide range of music, from Zeppelin to Vivaldi to Beck to Coltrane to Yello. The stage would ideally have between 65-74db of gain, maybe adjustable to 60db at minimum, and have variable impedance values. A balanced output stage would be ideal. I don’t ever really plan to have a second arm, but most stages that retail over $7K tend to have multiple inputs anyways.

My budget would be at tops ~$8K for a used unit. The unit that is sticking out to me from what I’m reading about is the Simaudio Moon 810LP. Another high on the list is the Esoteric E-02. I’ve also come across the Pass XP-27, the Gold Note PH-1000.

I’m looking for a stage with some personality in its character, not one that is overly refined. I’d love for it to be dynamic and bold when it should be, and also gentle and refined when it should be.

The only solid state stages I’ve ever owned and tried were the Pass Labs Xono, which was clean sounding but a little noisy and brittle sounding compared to a PS Audio Stellar Phono. I’ve liked all my tube phono stages better than both of those units.

I’ve also considered going further up the tube stage route, looking at Doshi 3.0, Aesthetix IO Eclipse, but I’m hesitant unless I can hear those in place. 

What solid stage phono stages have you loved, and what have you compared them to?

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Most higher end tonearm makers will offer their tonearms with "captive" cables as an option, so you have one wire from cartridge pin to phono input. For sure, this is true for Reed and Triplanar; I own one of each, both with captive cables. Clearaudio tonearms are not unique in this aspect.

Re balanced connection: You really already have a balanced connection, as 99% of cartridges offer a balanced output if the wiring permits.  To connect the cartridge to a balanced phono input, you simply use the "Ground" lead from the cartridge as the negative phase of a balanced signal. Optimally, therefore, you want the ground wire to be a conductor identical in type and quality to the conductor used for the positive phase of the signal.  By convention, the positive phase, aka "Hot" on an RCA connector, attaches to pin2 of an XLR connector, and the negative phase, aka "GD", attaches to pin3 of the XLR. pin1 is then where to connect the shield and any audio ground wire.  Since the internal wiring of most tonearms already uses the same conductors for what becomes Hot and GD in a single-ended connection, all you need is a balanced cable (defined as per above, where the pos and neg phase conductors are equal and terminated in an XLR), and of course a true balanced phono stage. (Be careful of that.  Some phono stages that offer XLR inputs are not truly balanced internally.) Also, you could get away with just re-terminating a single-ended phono cable where ground is carried on the shield with XLRs, but that would be a compromise with respect to optimal.

"Transimpedance".  I really dislike that term, although it is in common use these days to indicate a current-driven phono stage. Because it's misleading.  MC cartridges with high-ish internal impedance, say 20 ohms and higher, are not necessarily so well matched with SOME current-driven phono stages, because those phono stages inevitably have an input impedance greater than zero, and because the current output of the cartridge is a function of its internal resistance. (I know a lot of audiophiles break my "rule" by driving transimpedance stages with say a Denon DL103, which has a very high internal R. That's life.) The lower the internal resistance (and the greater the voltage output) of the cartridge, the more current it can deliver. If I am not mistaken, most current-driven phono stages seem to consist of an input stage that converts current to voltage. Then the downstream circuit functions much like any other phono stage.  The I to V conversion is best done by a solid state device. Hence most current-driven stages are at least hybrids or fully ss.  If it were me, I would check on the input impedance of any current-driven stage before purchase.  Ideally you want the Z to be as close to zero as possible.

@lewm 

I know a lot of audiophiles break my "rule" by driving transimpedance stages with say a Denon DL103, which has a very high internal R. That's life.

A great excuse for them to consider the upgraded “R” version DL103R (14 vs 40 ohms). Lower impedance equals more current & music in these types of circuits 👍

@thiefoflight hopefully you do get to demo the 810lp, it fits your characterization of 'SS with personality' from my experience. I represent a solid state phono from Germany called the Audiospecials Phonolab and had it in a comparo with the ( more costly ) Moon. Both are fantastic, but in this instance and system the takeaway was that the Phonolab is a straight A student but the 810 in comparison had more swagger on top of good grades :) . The Phonolab does have the interesting Recompizer function which is pretty nice to have with less than stellar recordings, for my wide ranging musical tastes it gets used...

Very happy with my Pass XP-27.  Super quiet and brings out the uniqueness of each cartridge. No balanced input, but has a true balanced output. Great controls up front for MC, MI, MM carts.

Dear  @thiefoflight  :  Just pull the triger for the 610 by SimsAudio, no tube or hybrid designs can " touch " it. Latter on you can make an upgrade to the 610 with the external 820S power supply that not even the 810 has it. Obviously I'm in agreement with the gentlemans that posted here and that support the 610/810. Don't waist your time and as soon is posible start to enjoy the SimsAudio. You can't go wrong with and fulfill your tragets:

 

" when it should be, and also gentle and refined when it should be. " Yes, when it should be.

 

I think that in the same system with the same cartridge if you listen to the 610 and 810 will be extremely hard that you can say which one in true is better, not only different but better,

 

Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS,

R.