Is There A Big Difference Between Subwoofers From Different Manufacturers
This is likely the last thread I’ll be posting about subwoofers.
I was just wondering if there is really a big difference between subwoofers from different manufacturers if the quality of the subs (which is mostly governed by the specifications) are fairly similar. Also, with the assumption that the set up is properly done to ensure a seamless integration with the main speakers.
There have been many comparisons or experiences on subwoofers shared by members here on this forum, people who upgraded their old sub to a new seemingly superior sub. Or people who added additional subs to the system which contributed to an overall improved bass performance. I’m referring to the former, the comparison between single subs.
To cut to the chase, I understand high quality subwoofers which are essentially higher spec designs will usually produce better performance than lower spec subs. When people upgrade their subs, I assume the new subs are superior in terms of specification, either a larger sub with larger drivers, higher power output of the internal amplifier, lower frequency extension or the combination of any of the above.
Has anyone compared subs which are fairly similar in quality or performance when upgrading from the old sub?
Example. If someone upgraded from a REL T7x to an SVS SB-3000 or SB-4000, I suppose the SVS would be an upgrade since they come with larger drivers, higher power output, everything superior spec-wise. What if the models are closely spec’d? Will the subs sound fairly similar or closer to each other ?
Say, the comparison between
SVS SB-3000/4000
Rythmik F12SE / F15
REL S510 / S812 / Carbon Special or Limited
I presume the subs will still sound slightly different but the difference may not be night and day if the quality or specifications are closely matched?
Sorry, I was lazy and did not look up the M7-HP. IMO, it’s overly complex and definitely overpriced. I eschew as many connections as possible. DIP switches have no- place/nowhere in an audio cct. I’m talking about a simple passive HP for the mains and direct connect to subs. The capacitor values are for the main amp and calculated C = 1 / ( 2 * π * f * R ) |
@ieales - Thank you. That is exactly the type of project I was looking for. I would need it to be balanced. The trade-off of course is whether the benefit of relieving the main amp/speakers of reproducing the lowest frequencies is greater than whatever detriment results from passing the signal through the HP componentry. Marchand Electronics offers a balanced version (XM446XLR-A) for $525.
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Let’s cover the facts. There are other less costly options for Vandersteen high pass filters, four in fact. Six if one were to count the built in high pass filters in the M5 and M7 amplifiers. The crowd that thinks a Vandersteen high pass filter is overly complex flunked resonance control of big drivers and tanking circuit elimination classes… IF you think you can hear around the DIP switch, simple jumpers soldered in circuit will take care of that… I run 2 systems w Vandy subs including the new Sub3 with M5 Kento grade high pass filters and another with M7 speakers and M7 amplifiers….. Not the only way to fly…but it works for me… Jim |
There is no comparison. If you were adventurous, you could simply add the caps to the main amp input. Driver/box low end interaction problems simply disappear. The mains gain a large increase in mid-bass fidelity and articulation. The Marchand look like decent units, but more complex than required. Another is Xkitz Electronics. It’s not difficult to assemble a first order passive and with good parts, it’s 100% effective and nearly failure proof.
Replace some decade old dip switches. It’s usually pretty audible. |
