VPI Scout 1.1 parts to upgrade HW~19


I am on a quest to upgrade my HW-19. 

I’m looking at buying a Scout 1.1 and using the platter and tone arm on my HW-19 mkIII.

My current table has a rega rb300. I understand that the JMW-9T tone arm will fit the arm board drilled for the rega as they have identical measurements. Any thoughts about this? My intel on this.

I’m also wondering about the junction box? What is the best way to mount this? Mat from VPI has shared a similar upgrade before, but we never saw clearly how the box was mounted. Or ,more importantly, how the tone arm wire was connected? Video. And how does the anti-skate assembly work in this case? In the video (around 5:52), It looks like it is attached to the back of tonearm base? Is the anti-assembly necessary? 

The 1 3/8" thick Scout platter is a drop in replacement. If I upgrade the suspension using Herbies big and tall tender-feet the platter weight should be fine. 

Thanks for any help.


I’m using this image as inspiration.

[Image: 24831228_1766333486730947_40473016948644...e=62F62193]

kjim

Here ya go!!

VPI basically has two types of bearings. One where the shaft sticks up from the plinth, with the ball on top ("inverted bearing") and one where the shaft goes down into the plinth with the ball at the bottom ("well bearing"). The inverted bearing uses super lube or white lithium grease to lubricate it.

A couple of corrections/additions to bdp’s VPI treatise:

-As yogiboy points out, the 19 MK 3 did have a stainless steel sub plinth.
The MK 4 bearing did not require modification of the plinth to accommodate the bearing well/housing. This bearing and bearing housing were the same as on the Mk3 and as before were secured to the plinth by three screws. The larger threaded bearing housing and bearing shaft were for the TNT series.

Later MK4’s came with a frosted acrylic platter.

 

 

I was relying on memory when I stated the Mk.3 HW-19 has a steel subchassis rather than a stainless steel one. At my age that is ill-advised. ;-) I knew VPI had replaced the steel plate with a stainless steel one, but I mistakenly though it was in the MK.4 version. I really should know better, as my HW-19 in a Mk.3, and it has the unpainted stainless steel plate. Duh. I upgraded my HW-19 with first an Aries 1/TNT-3/4 platter, then a TNT-5 platter. I like both a lot, the TNT-5 (stainless steel and Delrin) the most. 

While the aluminum bearing housing of the Mk.1/2/3 HW-19’s is the same 1" outer diameter as is the stainless steel housing of the Aries 1/2 and some TNT’s (others apparently came with a 1.25" version of the stainless steel bearing housing), the spindles of the two bearings are quite different. The spindle included in the stainless steel housing is much beefier, and has three little adjustable screws, for leveling the platter. The spindle "platform" upon which the platter rests is also much thicker, presumably to accommodate the heavier platters. The spindle is also fitted with three small rubber "donuts", to better secure the platter to the spindle.

While most used Aries 1/TNT platters are sold with their dedicated bearings, that is not always the case. In case you don’t know, the HW-19 bearing is not appropriate for use with the Aries/TNT platters, so when buying make sure you get both. However, if you find a platter with the 1.25" version of the bearing (or if you decide to use a platter with the inverted bearing, which I understand is also 1.25" in diameter) at a good price, the Delrin/stainless steel subchassis bearing mounting hole can be enlarged without too much difficulty.

There must be a few variants of the HW-19 MK4.  Mine (1995) has the delrin/aluminum/cork platter from the factory.  Have the SDS and SAMA.  Had a sapphire thrust plate and ceramic bearing added for a HUGE upgrade.  It's a  black hole noise floor.  

Would love to take it out of mothballs, fit a different arm and armboard and add the Sota Total Eclipse package.  Naw.