FR64 to FR66 conversion Analogmagik
Hi guys
I read the thread started by @syntax whose opinion I genuinely value. I have decided to get Richard Mak to refurb my FR64s arm.
Whilst on the website I saw you could get an FR66 replica arm tube.
Has anyone done this conversion?
What is the benefit of going 9 to 12 inches?
There is a very solid school of thought advocated by the maker of the SAT arm and the late great Max Townshend that the shorter the arm the better - rigidity and also resonance outweigh tracking improvement…
I would be grateful for the input of anyone particularly those who have both arms or got the conversion
thanks 🙏
@lohanimal , I'm curious to hear about your custom plinth for the TT101 that your building. I'm using a TT71 in an original Victor CL-2P plinth with custom aluminum quick change arm boards. Tonearms are either a Victor UA-7045, UA-7082 or an Audio Technica ATP-12T and cartridges are different flavors of the Denon DL-103. I consider this my reference table. Speed is dead stable at 33.33 and never wavers testing with the KAB strobe kit.
BillWojo
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I believe that Richard Mak performs all of the upgrades suggested by @dover except drilling holes the length of the arm to reduce mass. |
FYI, I use my FR64S on my modified QL10. Plinth has been heavily reinforced with aluminum and the armboard went in the trash in favor of an aluminum copy that is also bulked up. At that point in my audio life when I acquired the QL10 and fixed the TT101, I had no more patience for creating a new plinth from scratch. So I improved upon the original. |
@karl_desch ur right 😉 |
@lewm i have considered the modified plinth approach, but I took the view (rightly or wrongly) that a ground up design will look or feel more of a piece so to speak.
that said - did you notice an improvement by adding the plates/mass i know that on Arthur Salvatore site one man has made a waist high solid plinth - that said I think you risk seismic feedback. Apparently it is superb. |
