holmz I just read you last response. I don’t know what being on the scale means but I appreciate your response that,,,
I should have said “on the spectrum”…
In reference to this:
He is high functioning slight autistic so he just let loose.
If you want to confer concerning your room acoustics and/or equipment, I’m open.
Thanks but I need to set up the gear in the new house, and am not really going to be modifying the room much.
Maybe some treatments, but that is after measurements and the equipment gets set up. It is 100 year old house, so we are working it in as best as we can… which is likely similar to what many do when they do not have a spare room or basement to retreat to.
I was able to go under one part of house and put in a rack to stack wine onto and empty boxes, so that is great, but one would not want to go down the ladder if they are mentally addled.
There are choices depending on your budget, which can make big differences in sound quality and those that I would avoid. Other than that, your music and hearing preferences should govern your choices.
Intelligible for the HT/TV is important.
Usually I find that when the room gets easy to hold a conversation, then it is getting good for music… at least if we ignore the bass frequency room modes… which could be EQ’ed out.
Fortunately, there are cable and tweaks which can be auditioned for 30 or 60 days.
I am in Australia, so it is not like it is easy to do a 30 or 60 day demos.
Hence I keep asking whether there are any measurements that provide some proof.
Also I am not overly sure I can hear great differences, or at least I have not so far.
Hence I stick ith Mogami and Neutrik, and some other things like cotton jacketed cables. And I might try some Kimbers.
Regardless of what Amir states to be facts, you can try Synergistic Research tweaks and GroverHuffman.com cables with full refunds.
Personally I’d likely avoid the GR gear.
I recommend them after you have your room and system set up. If you can, use better quality and/or larger gauge internal wall wiring, separate power breakers (subpanel is possible) and a grounding rod.
Being in Australia the power is 240v/50Hz.
So whatever needs to happen on a 15A breaker here, is like a 30A breaker on 110v.
(It is all cut in half current wise,)
You can always upgrade power outlets (better contact, materials). They don’t have to be top of the line.
I would likely start with some measurement of the voltage, and whether there is anything happening like a diode action (cross over distortion) from say corrosion.
Various LED lights sometimes make a difference with noise injected on the power. But I only have a slight amount of hum, which is measureable but I cannot hear it.
I think it might be magnetic field, but I need to do some testing to work it out.
I like using incandescent, but they are getting harder to come across, but are great in a low light room. IMO.
I can’t help you on streaming equipment or DSP use.
I mostly prefer the TT, but the RME DAC seems to do just fine, and I have no issues with it streaming. And the AVP does the EQ stuff on its own.
If you are building your listening room from scratch, I can suggest interior wall construction and finishes which should compliment your system rather than create acoustic problems (such as use of sheet rock, voids that require in room bass traps, etc).
Good luck on your new listening room and equipment!
Yeah I have built a decoupled wall for the Haus-Boss’s old councelling room, and am familiar with the door seal arraignments, green glue and multiple layers of sheet rock. That is more for isolation than listening, but I have a couple of studios and room construction.
This house however has horsehair and plaster on lathing strips, and is really much better than any Gyprock/Sheetrock that I have heard. An old house in SoCal was also plaster over lathingh strips that was really good too. Plaster to me seems like it sounds different and better. It is much stiffer and is a composite of sorts.
For instance people do not generally put their fist through a plaster wall, where as a child can pook a hole in a plasterboard wall just by being careless with a bicycle handlebar. In comparison one needs to be more like Mohammed Ali or Bruce Lee on a 3/4” thick plaster wall, a small girl pushing a pretty pink bicycle is just not going to do it.