2. amps-preamps
  3. 176422-76351

Peachtree GaN 1 Beta

Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:

Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.

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As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.

I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.

Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:

 

What is the GaN 1?

In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!

What makes the GaN 1 so special?

First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.

Key Features at a Glance:
▪ 200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
▪ ZERO feedback design
▪ Regulated 450-Watt power supply
▪ Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
▪ DAC-less design
▪ Power on/off trigger port
▪ All aluminum chassis
▪ No cooling fans

 

This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....

Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.

I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.

The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...
abd1
donnylovely
105 posts
 

@yyzsantabarbara you can just use cheap speaker cable for the sub that you can pick up at a hardware store. I wouldn't spend a lot on that.

yyzsantabarbara
4,890 posts
 

The amp has opened up a lot and now the bass is comparable to my AHB2. That is using the WyWire speaker cables that are exaggerating the bass. The GAN1 is now doing the same thing (that is good).

I still think the GAN1 is still a little more laid back over my AHB2 system on my KEF LS50. A lot of people may prefer that sound. If I did not have my AHB2 system, that I love, I could see myself living with the GAN1 as the system in my office. However, now that I have 2 great tuners, and that is a huge part of my listening routine, I will not use the GAN1 in my office with the LS50 Meta. It will go with my RAAL SR1a headphones. I am going to be listening to this amp like that going forward.

I have not listened at low volume or with a variety of music, I will do that with my SR1a headphones, which are an even better speaker than the LS50 Meta and see how it compares to the 9 or 10 other SR1a 2-channel amps I previously had in the house.

I will put it back with the LS50 after I have a few 100 hours on it.

 

ricevs
1,543 posts
 

What is the chain when you use the Benchmark?  Benchmark DAC3?, Benchmark pre?, Benchmark amp? with two analog cables?.....total cost? compared to $1400 stock GaN 1?  What power cords, footers and line conditioning are you using?  Do you have any damped weight on the Gan1?  Will be nice to hear what you say when it is fully burned in and also after you get it modded (rubbing my hands together in anticipation....he he).

You guys really need to use the Giandel 5000 watt inverter run on LifePo4 batteries.....will blow your mind.....so pure and open.

yyzsantabarbara
4,890 posts
 

It is 3AM no and I got kicked off my ROON server. I force the server to shutdown automatically so that I have to go to sleep. I had a great listen with the SR1a headphones. My intuition about synergy of the GAN1 + SR1a was correct.

Let me first answer @ricevs question

  • Benchmark LA4 preamp ($2500)
  • Benchmark AHB2 monos ($6400)
  • Audience FrontRow with SpeakON terminated speaker cable ($4K)
  • Musetec 005 DAC for KEF LS50 ($3200)
  • Benchmark DAC3B (hardly ever for KEF LS50, $1600)
  • Audience AU24SE XLR and RCA (maybe $3000)
  • Benchmark 15-foot XLR between preamp and amp ($200)
  • Magnum Dynalab MD108T tuner ($8000)
  • Accuphase T-101 tuner ($1300 modded)
  • Sonore OpticalRendu | EtherRegen as an FMC | SystemOptics parts ($3000 approx)
  • RAAL SR1a amp interface box ($700)

vs

  • Peachtree GAN1 ($1400)
  • Audience AU24SX speaker cable (2 foot used $500)
  • Sonore streaming gear ($4000) Additional cost for Sonore UltraDigital, and SPDIFcable
  • RAAL SR1a amp interface box ($700)

I know a lot about gear for the SR1a earphones. The earphones are magic, and I spent a lot of time in the past 2 years figuring out the proper 2-channel amp to sound the best with the uber detail and hot treble of the SR1a. I had 9 to 10 amps go through the house. The best combo was the following:

  • CODA 07x preamp ($7200)
  • Musetec 005 DAC ($3200)
  • KRELL DUO 175XD ($11000)
  • plus all the other cables and streaming pieces listed above

This setup was the very best of all the combos I tried. I spent that $11K for an amp just for the SR1a. The KRELL was incredible with the SR1a, a warm and buttery smooth sounding amp.

However, when the RAAL VM-1a headphone amp came out it blew all of that expensive gear out of the water, and I sold almost all my gear except the Musetec 005 DAC and the Benchmark pre and amp. I rated the VM-1a a 10/10 in sound quality and the KRELL + CODA combo 8/10. I thought it was 10/10 prior to me hearing the VM-1a.

The SR1a is hot on top and can get fatiguing, such as with the LSA Voyager 350 GAN. The only 2 amps that were really good with the SR1a were the CODA #8, Parasound A21+, and the KRELL 175XD. Everything else was too fatiguing.

So, this was an important factor in my observation of the GAN1. When I listened earlier with the LS50 Meta, I thought it was a laid-back sound. I started to think maybe it was rolled off on the top end (that is with the current break-in). That was not the best sonic signature for my KEF LS50 Meta but for the SR1a it had great promise.

Listening to the SR1a and GAN1 was incredible. It tamed the hot SR1a and the sound was as good as the KRELL + CODA setup. That is some $30K in gear. However, it was not close to the VM-1a, but nothing is so that is not a big deal.

The other day I was listening to the Pretenders "Brass in Pocket" and heard some guitar track that I never heard before with the tube VM-1a amp and my Benchmark DAC3B. With the GAN1 I was not able to hear this. I also listened to a lot of 70’s music tonight, at first, music that could be fatiguing (and I played it loud). Judas Priest, Zeppelin, April Wine, Rush, AC/DC. No fatigue at all. Then some Bee Gees, Al Green, Michael Kiwanuka to hear some nice vocals, these were also non-fatiguing and a real fun listen. So as of now I love this amp with the SR1a. A home run in every respect.

I actually preferred the leaner sound of the GAN1 over the lusher sound of the KRELL and CODA pairing on the SR1a. That is just my personal preference. I would rate the GAN1 as an 8.5/10 with the SR1a. That is pretty incredible in my eyes to be the best 2-channel amp for my SR1a.

My opinion is that the top end is definitely rolled off. I have too much experience with the SR1a to know how the sonic signature is interacting with the SR1a. I also get fatigued easily with bad sound. The fact that I did not with the GAN1 make me believe it is rolled off.

I have a DSP Convolution filter specifically made for the SR1a. It was coincidently created by Mitch Barnett, the guy who also did some DSP work for my 2-channel. The SR1a filter is available for anyone to buy. I do not use the DSP for the SR1a or my 2-channel anymore. The SR1a Convolution filter tames the top end of the SR1a with certain amps. I would never use it with the KRELL or CODA but with the Benchmark AHB2 it was needed (until recently but that is another story). The Convolution filter seemed to do the same thing that the GAN1 amp is doing (that laid-back sound).

 

 

 

 

 

 

ricevs
1,543 posts
 

A stock GaN1 amp is really good.....but there are so many ways to make it better:

1. Eliminate the junk AC/Fuse connector and use a Furutech inlet......The better inlet and removal off the fuse will sound much better. You don’t need two fuses: one on the power supply and one on the outside of the amp....one bad fuse is bad enough....two is worse.

2. Changing the AC input wire to the power supply with seriously good sounding larger gauge wire......better sound again.

3. Changing the fuse on the power supply to an audiophle fuse for better sound again.

4. Change the output wire to better sounding wire and hardwire at both ends....(no push on connectors).

5. Change the output jacks to the better sounding WBT nextgens.....or even better to my plastic clamp goodies (you cannot use bananas with my plastic clamps...only spades and bare wire). Clampng using plastic hardware (all metals....even as a clamp...wreck the sound) is really the same as hardwiring. You are clamping the wire coming from the output wire from the amp board directly to your spade or bare wire on your speaker wire. I will be ordering the plastic parts soon and have the clamps available for people to use on any amp and/or speakers. The plastic wing nutted clamps will be mounted on painted wood (either as a single pair for mono use....or two sets for stereo use). This is the worlds best connector....better than silver binding posts or anything else you can think of........same sound as soldering the wires together.

6. Change the spdif input wire to way better sounding wire (hardwire at both ends....no connectors).

7. Try removing the "extra" inductor on the speaker wires.

8. Change and or modify the output filter caps on the amp board.

9 Damp certain parts.

10. Shield certain parts.

11. etc. to infinity.

So, if it is this good now.......OMG.......you are in for a treat.

Down the road, completely different power supplies can be tried...Even linear supplies......fun times ahead.

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