2. amps-preamps
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Peachtree GaN 1 Beta

Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:

Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.

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As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.

I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.

Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:

 

What is the GaN 1?

In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!

What makes the GaN 1 so special?

First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.

Key Features at a Glance:
▪ 200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
▪ ZERO feedback design
▪ Regulated 450-Watt power supply
▪ Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
▪ DAC-less design
▪ Power on/off trigger port
▪ All aluminum chassis
▪ No cooling fans

 

This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....

Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.

I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.

The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...
abd1
ricevs
1,543 posts
 

So, you are clearly stating that changing parts does not matter because you have no test results that show that they do? As long as the amp measures the way you want then it does not matter what part you use? You earlier stated that a LOT of what I said could be measured. Now you are stating that you just measure the amp and as long as it measures OK..it is. You just keep measuring it so it has no rf? You are clearly not measuring A LOT of what I said. You are measuring NONE of what I stated. You are just measuring the entire amp and that is it. You have no idea of what parts SOUND LIKE.

You have never tested parts for distortion because it is impossible and you and everyone knows that.....However, all parts SOUND different.....no matter how they measure. I am sure your amp sounds great and measures fine and has no rf or other noises......so what? All the parts inside still have a sound.....this is what you will not address. If you change the brand of surface mount resistors in your amp to another brand....it will change the sound of the amp....and it is not measurable....it will measure the same. This is what I do mostly. I don’t make things measure worse or have more rf......I change parts so the amp sounds better.....something you and all the ASR people do not know is true......is that.....ALL PARTS HAVE A SOUND........and also execution of parts and layout and damping, etc. is important. If you do not put the outside foil of a cap to the negative polarity....it will not sound as good. Do you do this to your capacitors on the output of your amp? If not....please determine the outside foil and oriented the way I suggest and listen. EVERYONE who has tried this agrees with my findings. Again, the amp will not measure differently. There is a thread that you can find on Audiocircle where people describe the sonic benifits of using better modified caps oriented in the correct direction......quite dramatic is their findings.

kuribo
524 posts
 

ALL PARTS HAVE A SOUND

Shouting doesn't make something true.

No, all parts do not have a "sound". They have electric characteristics like resistance, capacitance, inductance. They have no sound or we wouldn't need speakers, would we?

Electrical characteristics can be measured. It's how parts are made, how they are tested, how they are spec'ed and used in circuits. An electrical device is just an assemblage of electrical components- the total a sum of the parts. If there is no change in the amps' measurements in toto, there can be no change in how it interacts with the load, and thus no change in the sound.

The only thing you have proven is that people are susceptible to confirmation bias. Of course, it is entirely possible your circuit hacking has degraded the performance of whatever you have operated on, and there is some change in actual sound. Some may in fact think they hear an improvement. But again, that just opinion, not fact. Since you don't actually test and compare actual performance, you have no idea.

atmasphere's avatar
atmasphere
11,778 posts
 

So, you are clearly stating that changing parts does not matter because you have no test results that show that they do? As long as the amp measures the way you want then it does not matter what part you use? You earlier stated that a LOT of what I said could be measured. Now you are stating that you just measure the amp and as long as it measures OK..it is. You just keep measuring it so it has no rf? You are clearly not measuring A LOT of what I said. You are measuring NONE of what I stated. You are just measuring the entire amp and that is it. You have no idea of what parts SOUND LIKE.

You have never tested parts for distortion because it is impossible and you and everyone knows that...

A lot of what you are saying here is false, for example the last two statements. We use Caddock resistors in our tube amps because they sound better, which you can see in their specs. Our tube amps are zero feedback and so have no correction; as a result we have to give them the best opportunity. Its funny how parts that measure well can sound good too.

The opening statement is false. The second statement is misleading. And yes, you test the finished product. That is how everyone including yourself does it, no matter how that testing is done; even if its just listening, which in the case of a class D is asking for trouble. If you mess up the radiation, you’re doing no-one any favors.

So I’m sure you do the testing and present your customers with a certificate showing that it still meets FCC part 15, right?

 

kuribo
524 posts
 

No real consensus, which should be no surprise:
 

 

 

ricevs
1,543 posts
 

Yes, I know you use Caddocks and Vcaps in your tube amps......this is good that you listened to two parts and found they work better than some others. However, that is where you stop. Caddock resistors do not measure better than other low inductance resistors....in fact, they do not sound nearly as good as parallel Nude Vishays.... I sometimes will use a power Caddock to get the basic value and then bypass it with a higher value nude Vishay because it sounds way better. Caddocks by themselvers sound "grey".....he he. There is NOTHING in the specs of a Caddock resistor that mentions low harmonic distortion.....just that it is a non inductive part....Right now my padding resistor on my tweeter is two parallel small Caddocks bypassed by a nude Vishay.......way better highs with the Vishay bypass resistor. You cannot measure better distortion because you use a Caddock resistor.....unless the resistor you used before is inductive.

Ralph.....you sure have a fear of radiation.....maybe make a faraday cage to live in. I have been modding class D amps for 20 years and no one has died of radiation poisoning.....or had birdies or whistles or whatever your fear is.

What I am always saying is the same thing......everything matters.......So, if you do not do listening tests to all your parts and execution then you are leaving a lot of transparency on the table. No one....including me.....listens to everything....there is just not time. That is why the first thing to do when tweaking is to eliminate everything that is not needed......like LEDs, output connectors, extra connections, extra fuses, steel bolts and plates holding transformers down, etc......all these things mess up the sound. Removing things is FREE. After removing everything not needed then spend time on better sounding parts and execution that will bring the most benefit.....then spend the rest of your life....he he.....tweaking and tweaking the rest. It is infinite....it never ends.

You can play at any level you want......you can do the ASR/Kuribo game where only measurements matter......or you can add the Ralph thing where only certain kinds of distortion matter (and Caddocks and V-caps in a tube amp)......or you can go crazy like me and try to play with as much of the circuit/execution as possible. There is no right or wrong. You determine who gets your vote by the way the finished product sounds TO YOU.......as that is the only thing that matters. Enjoy the ride.

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