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Peachtree GaN 1 Beta

Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:

Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.

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As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.

I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.

Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:

 

What is the GaN 1?

In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!

What makes the GaN 1 so special?

First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.

Key Features at a Glance:
▪ 200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
▪ ZERO feedback design
▪ Regulated 450-Watt power supply
▪ Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
▪ DAC-less design
▪ Power on/off trigger port
▪ All aluminum chassis
▪ No cooling fans

 

This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....

Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.

I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.

The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...
abd1
dolfan
109 posts
 

Did you order amp only or combo with Node?

Email them again and remind them when you ordered.

kitsap2
24 posts
 

@treepmeyer, I wouldn’t worry.  I ordered mine, w/Node in April, and received it in late August.  Was worth the wait.  

atmasphere's avatar
atmasphere
11,841 posts
 

However, that is where you stop. Caddock resistors do not measure better than other low inductance resistors....in fact, they do not sound nearly as good as parallel Nude Vishays....

Caddock has several model lines. The most commonly available ones are as you say. But they make others which have to be custom ordered and they are better than the Vishays. Vishay owns Caddock FWIW, and has seen fit to not mess with them when they bought Caddock out.

Ralph.....you sure have a fear of radiation.....maybe make a faraday cage to live in. I have been modding class D amps for 20 years and no one has died of radiation poisoning.....or had birdies or whistles or whatever your fear is.

We have to meet FCC and EU Directives (for the CE mark) since we’re an actual company. The CE mark is required for export to Europe. Some of the equipment that you worked on may have borne the CE or FCC mark; which means that it may have done so illegally after modification. Quite often that escapes notice but it can be a pain for the owner if they don’t realize why their tuner has so much interference. If you’re not doing testing you are doing your customers no favors; makes no difference how long you might have been doing the work other than it might mean a greater legacy of interference.

If you were to measure and certify the noise generated, you might on occasion find a unit that does not meet criteria right out of the box and you might be able to come up with a fix. But without radiation measurement you’ll have no idea.

No one....including me.....listens to everything....there is just not time. That is why the first thing to do when tweaking is to eliminate everything that is not needed......like LEDs, output connectors, extra connections, extra fuses, steel bolts and plates holding transformers down, etc......all these things mess up the sound.

This is speculation on your part.

I’ll give you a little tip: most toroid transformer manufacturers will include a steel bolt for mounting the part. But if you use it and spend some time with the installation, you’ll find that the bolt gets hotter than the transformer since its a magnetic short. We found this out back in the 1980s and so use non-magnetic stainless bolts. This causes the transformer to draw less current and run cooler.

My point here is you have jumped to a conclusion based on a made up story about what we do or don’t do. If you want street cred, refrain from talking about things of which you have no idea.

jerryg123's avatar
jerryg123
3,429 posts
 

@atmasphere is right and I feel Ralph's credentials are more impressive than Rick's or others posting in this tread (myself included for sure)

Rick and others should heed Ralphs words.

My point here is you have jumped to a conclusion based on a made up story about what we do or don’t do. If you want street cred, refrain from talking about things of which you have no idea.

ricevs
1,543 posts
 

Let’s see......you use a custom Caddock resistor that you did extensive listening tests versus the latest parallel nude Vishay resistors? Really? How many brands of surface mount resistor did you listen to before using the ones in your class D amp? What other parts did you listen to? So, tell us your story of how you listened to everything including the op amps you use in the input. You have already stated that you thought op amps have no sound (are neutral). This has been refuted by hundreds of posts all over the net. Let us hear your story....if you think I am making up a story about you. I only can know what you reveal.....and by the way you state things......is what I reflect. So, give us some beef. What do you listen to? Every brand of solder, resistor, cap, wire, jack, etc?.....or just a Caddock resistor.....20 or more years ago.

Man, you are really hung up on radiation....again....get a faraday cage. Again, none of my customers of my modded class D amps for 20 years have ever had a problem....Your possible problem is that you have a new amp and you don’t want me to touch it because I would make it sound better (ny assumption....since I have always been able to make something sound better) and then you would have to answer to that......that could be a problem for you. ....not me or my customers. However, I doubt that anyone would want to send their $5400 amps to me to void the warrantee and lose resale value.......but maybe there is someone who is REALLY a hot rodder......maybe they want to find out what are the possiblilities that I could provide....but, I doubt it. You are safe.

Toroidal transformers do not need a steel bolt through the middle of them and a steel plate to run cool and safe.....and you know it. However, any conductive material (magnetic or not) around or though the transformer WRECKS the sound. Any of you that want to experiment and find out what this tweak does:......just remove the steel bolt and plate and raise the transformer off the chassis using a quarter inch piece of wood.....Listen and grin.....You can use a little Amazing Goop underneath the transformer to make sure it does not slide around......and if you need to put the hardware back to ship it or sell it.....no problem. Your ears will love the difference this "tweak" does. I have been doing this for over 30 years......and those that have tried it are ALL in agreement on its benefits. We all deserve this kind of attention by manufacturers....ones that know that everything makes a difference......Certainly at the lower price points we do not expect the Chinese companies, etc. to do tweaking.....but anything above $3K.....and sold direct.....I would hope so.

High end audio has no common knowledge....It is every man for himself. There is no proof that anything sounds a certain way. No double blind tests have ever been done on various amounts of measured distortion or distortion types...NEVER. The ASR people have NO PROOF that their numbers correlate to sound. It is just their opinion.....so their opinion has no weight as there are no listening tests to back up their opinion.....the only thing that is important is how something SOUNDS......YOUR OPINION is the only one that counts for your listening pleasure......trust your self....trust your ears....you know what you like....you know what "sounds best".....to YOU.

I respect and love everyone.....but I do tell my experience.....my truth about what things "sound like". I listen and experiment and am always learning. I assume very little....I am always growing in my direct knowledge because I try new things.....I try and stay open.....open mind....open heart

I wish you all the best sound possible and the best life possible by embracing each moment......each miraculous second.....with joy and love. There is nothing but God loving itself......and you are IT.

 

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