2. amps-preamps
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Peachtree GaN 1 Beta

Before I start my post here is my current system for reference:

Auarlic Aries G1 --> Denafrips Terminator or SW1X DAC --> Audio GD HE1 XLR preamp or Sachs preamp --> various tube amps --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's w/ a pair of REL S510 subs. Cables and power conditioning commensurate with the rest of the system.

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As warmer months approach I have been looking for a cool running amp to replace my Line Magnetic LM-518 and other tube amps for a few months as they run pretty hot.

I've been interested in the GaN FET amps and just purchased a used LSA Voyager 350 Gan FET amp which I should receive in a few days. I've tried class D amps before and while they checked a lot of boxes I just didn't feel drawn in. However, I like to explore so I figured I'd try the GanFET and since the amp has zero feedback and my speakers seem to prefer amps with little or no feedback I figured it be worth checking out.

Today, Peachtree Audio sent out an email inviting users to a beta of their new Gan 1 amp. Here are some excerpts from their email:

 

What is the GaN 1?

In basic terms it is a 200 Watts-Per-Channel (WPC) Power Amplifier designed to be the sole interface between your digital audio device with a variable output, like a Bluesound NODE, and your speakers. The GaN 1 is a simple, pure and cost-effective audio solution: connect the GaN 1 to a streamer and a pair of speakers and you have an amazing Hi-Fi system. That's it...no DAC, no preamp and no input switching. The signal path from the music to your speakers is remarkably short and free of artifacts. Want to hear the intricate details in your music that have always been there, but you couldn't quite make them all out before? Then the GaN 1 is for you!

What makes the GaN 1 so special?

First and foremost is the GaN-FET amplifier module. It has several inherent advantages in a power amplifier that even the best MOS-FET designs simply cannot achieve. A GaN-FET power stage provides a precise high-power reproduction of the Class-D PWM signal with extremely high linearity. This linearity eliminates the need for ANY feedback, ultimately allowing for the best possible audio quality providing clean, clear middle and high frequencies and a tight, solid reproduction of low frequencies. GaN-FETs track the complex audio waveforms MUCH more accurately than MOS-FETs, resulting in significantly more transparent and natural sound. The difference is something even a casual listener can hear and appreciate. The GaN 1 is also designed so that it does NOT require a digital-to-analog-converter (DAC). The digital audio signal at the input directs the amplifier outputs to drive the speakers. Although DACs have continued to improve over the years, there is no DAC better than NO DAC! This concept is not new as similar devices known as "Power DACs" made quite a splash in our industry years ago. But this time around, by executing the concept with GaN-FETs, the bar is raised to an entirely new level.

Key Features at a Glance:
▪ 200 WPC state-of-the-art GaN-FET module
▪ ZERO feedback design
▪ Regulated 450-Watt power supply
▪ Coaxial S/PDIF input with native support up to 24-bit / 192kHz
▪ DAC-less design
▪ Power on/off trigger port
▪ All aluminum chassis
▪ No cooling fans

 

This sounded really interesting to me and since I have a good streamer I signed up for the amp beta only. One aspect that intrigues me is to create an extremely minimal signal path. My speakers are single driver, crossover-less design. Employing the GaN 1 will mean the system will be Auralic Aries --> GaN 1 --> Cube Nenuphar Mini's. Will that lead to a more engaging sound vs the full system? Will the Voyager GaN 350 outperform a tube amp in the full system? Who knows, should be fun to find out....

Now, I have no idea how either of these GaN FET amps will work with my speakers. The Cube Nenuphars seem to prefer amps with low damping and no negative feedback, which is more common with SET tube amps and Class A solid state amps. I'm not sure of the damping factor of the GaN FET amps, but both are Zero feedback designs, and both have way more wattage than I need. For reference, I have a 1.5 wpc 45 tube amp that sounds amazing with the Cubes, so high wattage is not required. I am interested though in what these amps will sound like compared to my tube amps, and I am particularly interested in what the streamer direct to amp Peachtree will sound like.

I am also looking to acquire a First Watt SIT-3, which is a great match with the Cubes, but now that they are no longer produced prices have gone above my current comfort level. If I can get one I will throw it into the experiment.

The Peachtree won't be shipped until sometime in June, or possibly later. In the meantime I will get the LSA Voyager in the next few days. I might even be able to get it hooked up this weekend so stay tuned, should be an interesting experiment...
abd1
donnylovely
105 posts
 

@ricevs tell us about these upgrades please. The link on your site isn't working. 

ricevs
1,543 posts
 

Here is my experience with the GaN 1:

1.Did not sound good stock.....very grainy, dry and harsh. Some of the problem is that you have to play it for at least an hour before it really performs.....this could be the turn on warmup of my streamer as well.....as I turn them on together using my inverter.......maybe the inverter has to warm up.

2. Covered the external fuse with copper foil.......noiticeably more musical and correct.....costs nothing. It has another fuse on the power supply inside so this external fuse is not needed.

3. Did the entire AC mod which removes the inlet/fuse holder and switch. Changed the inlet to a Furutech inlet and hardwired much better wire directly to the power supply...and did another mod to the power supply to reduce distortion. Now I was crying....it sounded so good. I thought to my self....."I could charge $500 for this mod alone and people would be amazed". But, this was just the beginning.

4. Removed the output connectors, stock output wire with inductors, and hardwired great wire directly out the back of the amp and soldered them to my speaker wires. This will be an option as I will be offering my plastic clamps as an output connector option (slightly less good sounding WBT Nextgens will be standard)......I NEVER use any kind of speaker connector. So glad I can offer that to people. Much more detail, dynamics and bass power.

5. Changed the digital input wire to my own custom wire and wired it directly from the input jack to the input pins on the board (bypassing two connnectors). More detail again. However, it had gotten slightly less juicy with the last two mods......so on we went.

6. Changed the output filter caps on the board to modified Wima polyprop caps....oriented so the outside foil goes to ground for best sound. OMG!!! Way more musical, detailed, real and bigger sounding.....more liquid yet more clear.....Now we have something special. The stock Kemet metalized Polyester are really not good. These same caps are also used the the EAS modules used in the Peachtree GaN 400 and the LSA Voyager. These amps would sound way better with those caps changed out.

For those ASR types.....none of these mods are measureable.....the amp will measure the same before and after the mods. But the sound......well, you judge.

Some info is on my website and I am now taking orders. This will blow your mind!

thespeakerdude
483 posts
 

Upgraded the output wire and eliminated the extra output coils (not needed). 

For those ASR types.....none of these mods are measureable.....the amp will measure the same before and after the mods.

@atmasphere do you care to comment? I think the removal of an output filter for Class-D will be very measurable. I guess when you don't have to worry about compliance testing, anything is possible. @atmasphere what would happen if you hooked these up to a big electrostatic speaker or something like a Magnepan? Aren't these switching at frequencies right in the middle of the AM band and then hooked up to all that wire in the speakers?  Aren't those speakers big capacitors? What is going to happen without those filters?

 

2. Covered the external fuse with copper foil.......noiticeably more musical and correct.....costs nothing. It has another fuse on the power supply inside so this external fuse is not needed.

I think what you meant to say is it is not needed for anything other than safety. If you are going to break EMI compliance, may as well go all in and break safety compliance too.

 

 

 

donnylovely
105 posts
 

@ricevs do the output caps have to be polyester could you use milflex sa's in there? 

ricevs
1,543 posts
 

You only need one fuse in an amp to protect it.....It has a fuse on the power supply....you DO NOT need two fuses in a row. 

The coil on the output wire is not needed.  Atmasphere, Purifi, Hypex, Orchard, LSA, etc. do not use an extra coil on the output, they just use the coil and cap on the board.  VTV uses the same type of module with no coil.  EAS, the manufacturer does not recommend a coil on the output.   Mbolek already modded his Peachtree and also eliminated the "not needed coil" on the output wire with positive sonic results.....please read his experience.  Lots of manufacturers put things on their products they "think" they need......but actually wreck the sound.  Marantz thinks they need to protect the secondaries of their power transformers in their CD players.....so they add 'extra fuses"......which ALL degrade the sound.  They also put coupling caps on the output stages that they do not need........you know...."just in case someone sends 30 volts into the output stage of their player"....which is as likely to happend as you winning the biggest lotto on earth......meaning never.

The first main rule in tweaking is to eliminate everything not needed for sound....as every single thing has a sound......meaning it has distortion (not measureable....but sonically hearable)....LESS IS MORE!

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