Another vote for Rogue's reliability. I've owned (and still do) two of their preamps RP-7 and RP9 as well as their power amp Stereo 100 for years and have zero issues with them. Build and sound quality is excellent. I did have the RP7 upgraded to the RP9, sent it to Rogue for the upgrade with ~2 week TAT. Rogue is a quality company in my experience.
Rogue Audio. Reliability issues? Anyone?
I recently have been loving an Atlas Magnum power amplifier. I had a tube go bad, a fuse blow, and now red-plating. All of this could be related. But I am trying to decide if I want to pay shipping both ways ($90 each way), pay Rogue’s $175 bench fee (minimum) and then spend ungodly amounts on tubes that are hard to find.
I have friends, two to be exact, inform me that Rogue is notorious for this crap and their amplifiers are money pits. Is this normal tube stuff? Should I go for it or cut my losses and buy something else. I really love the way it sounds amd I really want to love Rogue.
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So a post above says they have manual bias. turn the bias down by 10 mA and that should help a lot. If it is a KT88 then maxx plate dissipation is 40 watts. I'd run it at 30 watts and if having problems, I'd use 25 for a while. You need to know your plate voltage. It is pin 3. Either measure it or find a reference for your amp (this is amplifier specific, not tube specific, don't use plate voltage max off the tube data sheet). Then calculate your bias: 25= Voltage x current so bias current = 25/voltage. Jerry |
The amp uses KT120s Per the amp’s manual: Using the bias tool, slowly turn the screw on the potentiometer that is adjacent Not sure I follow this statement by the Op "So much attention went into matched tubes. How am I supposed to just replace one tube and throw out all that paid-for attention to detail? "
Other than selecting matched quad when ordering there's not a whole lot of attention required
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They might have got somewhat of a bad rep for their cathode-bias amps of 20+ years ago. That would be the 88 and M120 models. These amps threw out a whole lot more heat, which can cause problems. Their current tube amp models are manually biased via trimpots & built-in meter, and these have proven quite reliable. With any tube amp, there’s no 100% perfect fail-safe for a sudden catastrophic tube short. I had this happen with an Electro Harmonix KT90 in my Rogue Apollo monoblocks, circa 2010. It dusted a metal oxide resistor and singed ~ 1cm of circuit board trace. Trace was still working but the solder mask got burned off so Rogue replaced the whole board under warranty. So yes, a bad tube can cause collateral damage that requires service. I switched to KT120 tubes after that incident, and they’ve been exceptionally reliable. Never had another problem in the next 12 years of Apollo ownership. Tube amps with advanced auto-bias & protection circuitry might have a slightly lower risk, and P2P wired amps have no PCB board to damage. Never had the slightest issue with my VAC auto-bias tube amps so far, though I’m only 4 years in with these amps. In your case, I would definitely send the Atlas in. Bit of a bummer, but better to get this sorted now. It's a great little amp, and Rogue customer support is fantastic. |
Power tubes are matched for Gm and Ip. Bias controls static Ip [plate current]. Gm is how much the tube responds to drive change. Mismatched tubes have more 2nd harmonic, i.e. fat tube I match drivers, triode halves and power tubes. The difference is clearly audible. @nickrobotron Tube gear is pricy to own. I had a GL KT88 eat its cookies at about 1k hours. [It’s silly to run w/o hour meters.] So now I have GL KT88 spare quad, spare pair and spare. Most tube gear is pretty simple and easily repairable with a bit of knowledge and a schematic. Of course, if you’re careless it can kill you. $175 seems cheap enough. |
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