List of plinth builders for Technics SP10 MK3

@rich121 It is no secret that I am a advocate of Panzerholz.

I have seen it with a finishing coating that really works well with it in use as a TT Plinth, where the Raw Material is enhanced to a attractive lustre.

The TTS 8000 as seen in the Link is done by an individual I know in the UK.

https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/plinth-design-advice-for-direct-drive-turntable.992415/ 

Rich, surely you’re aware of Albert Porter’s panzerholz plinth for the mk3. Has he ceased to sell them?

Thanks lewm, but I am wanting to mount the motor 'naked', like Steve Dobbins, Chris Thornton (Artisan Fidelity).... I don't think Albert has a design for that style, at least not when I communicated with him before?
I did message him though, and again, thank you.

Even more interesting. 

The design where the Stator / Platter Bearing Housing is embedded into a Chassis/Plinth on a SP10 is commonly known of as the Kaneta Design and gives credit to the creator Dr Kaneta. There are today a few Variants of the earliest of designs.

I am a variant of this designs produced using Panzerholz or Permali for a SP10 MkII (the new TT is now purchased to be donated for the build ) and a friend has already got their one produced, the only delay at present is the New Power Supply being produced.

I have encouraged this route for quite some time, as I have first hand experience of the PTP Solid Nine which creates similar for a Lenco Idler Drive. The PTP and Kaneta shares a similar design intent and I can't help but feel quite sure the notable merits for the Lenco Idler Drive mechanical interfaces will transfer over to a DD TT.

There is plenty about this design on DIY Audio to strongly suggest a Kaneta variant  it is a valuable addition. 

Strictly speaking, I think the Kaneta plinth was designed for the mk2 and not the mk3. The two chassis’ present distinctly different issues, because the mk2 is larger below the surface and houses all the electronics. Thus re-plinthing, if you want to separate the motor from the electronics, requires also that you build a box for the latter. The mk3 is actually easier to upgrade in that regard; the motor is fairly easy to remove from the small round housing found below the visible upper surface of a mk3. For my mk3, I commissioned a large heavy slate that houses the OEM assembly. Below that I installed a bearing damper a la Porter. And below that a substantial solid cherrywood base that bolts to the slate. IOW, I elected not to follow Dobbins’ idea, although I greatly admire his work. I succeeded in making my mk3 so heavy that I cannot lift it without assistance. I’ve also done the Krebs mod, and I’ve upgraded the chip a la JP Jones. I’m done.

Rich, if you want to use slate and if you opt not to do the Dobbins mod, I can offer some guidance. I think I still have the pdf file that was used to program the water jet to cut the slate.