300b lovers

Yes, you do star grounding, and you always do "sub" stars for each stage.  At least that is how I do it.....

How would you compare the sonics of your 300B amp to the the Class D amp you make now? You’re the creator of both, so you’re in the best position to evaluate and compare. I only spent a half-hour of casual listening to the Purifi at the show (and Audio Group of Denmark), so I’m hardly an expert on the subject.

Its been a long time so my comparisons have a set of our M-60 amplifiers in between if that makes sense. The M-60s were overall less colored by distortion with wider bandwidth and a greater sense of palpability. Peter Moncreif had us do a direct comparison at the show.

So the M-60 compares to the class d in that they have a similar tonal balance- with no grain or edginess in the mids and highs. The big tell that we hear and that customers report is that the class D is more focused in that its easier to hear what’s going on in the rear of the sound stage, pick out details and that sort of thing.

And if you really want to get hardcore, make sure all the cathode circuitry, of each section, comes down to a single star ground on the main ground bus-bar.

If I can add to this, make sure that the grid circuit and cathode circuit of each tube employ a single wire that goes to ground for both of those circuits. If you are using terminal strips, to do this the grid resistor and cathode resistor would tie to the same point and then a single wire to ground is used.

Tubes amplify differentially, which is to say the grid and cathode are out of phase with each other. So if a single wire is used for ground and noise is injected into that wire, it will be rejected by the tube. If you use separate wires the tube will be more noise susceptible.

Just a quick update that Don and I are continuing to refine the Blackbird, with a bit of Raven and Karna Mark I thrown in. The chassis will be 18" wide to give a more spacious layout, a simplified build procedure, and visually match the Raven.

The circuit continues to be balanced throughout, with a tube lineup of a 6SN7, a pair of matched and balanced triode-connected 6V6, and a pair of matched and balanced 300B’s. The power supplies (both of them) have a slow-start circuit that protects against hot-start transients if the AC power flickers off for a second or two, as well as controlling tube warm-up.

Sonically, Don and I are prioritizing depth and realism of tone color, like 300B SET amplifiers, combined with a clarity and directness usually associated with high-performance Class A and Class D transistor amplifiers.

Since nobody is reading this thread right now, I’m going to throw out my wish list, my note in a bottle, to the wilds of the Internet:

* I’d like to see LinLai or JJ or any of the other tube vendors, try something a little out of the ordinary. A true triode, using an octal KT88 socket, that biases up exactly like a triode-connected KT88. An indirectly heated triode, in a KT88 package, with only three elements ... cathode, control grid, and plate. With no screen or suppressor grid, and the control grid correctly spaced so the whole tube mimics a triode-connected KT88, so it can plugged directly into a KT88 socket in an existing amp and work right away.

What is the benefit over a standard KT88? Well, with no useless screen or suppressor grid, the one remaining grid can be optimized for lowest distortion ... in particular, the lowest proportion of high-order harmonics, like a direct-heated triode.

It’s not the direct heating of the M-shaped filament that’s responsible for the very low distortion of DHT’s (compared to triode-connected pentodes and beam tetrodes). It’s the clean, uniform grid structure, and the carefully chosen spacing from the cathode (or filament). So there’s no reason a purpose-designed true triode can’t be designed to fit a standard KT88 (or EL34) socket that has the same DC bias characteristics as it’s more complex brother, but also much lower distortion.

Literally, a simple plug-in improvement for all the hundreds of thousands of conventional PP-pentode amps out there. No change in bias, no change in cathode circuit, no change in fixed-bias operating point, just lower distortion, ideally approaching DHT performance if the grid is correctly designed.

You could call the new tube a TR88 to distinguish it from a KT88, while signifying it is plug-in compatible (thanks to the same DC biasing). Or TR34 if it replaces an EL34.

@lynn_olson - that’s a cool idea Lynn. There are certainly plenty of audiophiles out there with KT88 amps that are running them in triode mode that could benefit from these, not to mention folks with KT88 amps that don’t currently have a way to run triode connected. 

i don’t currently have a KT88 amp, but would probably build one if such a tube were available.