300b lovers

Back when I was playing around with 300B’s, I found that each brand had its "sweet spot". The authentic 300B’s, and the exact reproductions, seemed happiest between 65 and 75 mA. The European super tubes, between 72 and 85 mA. The monsters with giant 65-watt plates are probably happy between 80 and 95 mA. Power supplies need to deliver at least twice the quiescent current, preferably more.

If the current is a little low, they are rich-sounding, but also murky and dull, and if too high, super detailed but also wiry and hard-sounding. Very much like setting VTA in a phono cartridge ... there is a correct setting, and you know it when you hear it.

There is also a tiny range of allowable filament voltage, from 4.85 to 5.05 volts. This can change the entire character of the tube, from very dull but rich sounding to wiry and hard. For longest life, it should be exactly 5 volts, and leave the subjective tuning to setting the quiescent current.

The B+ voltage only had a minor effect compared to the other two parameters ... well, three, counting tube swapping. The other indirect-heated tubes aren’t as temperamental ... put them in the usual range, and they sound fine.

Don thanks for sharing what you are hearing with the OPT and tubes. I’ll have to hear these somehow someway. 
 

I share my tube experiences because I know how hard it is to get all of these expensive things in one session so they can be A/B/C/D compared. Some I owned, some were loaned. Goes without saying that everyone will find their own preference. But meaningful differences exist. I roll till I find the right ones then stop. Some never do.

I was mistaken. Thought you did the PAC 2 upgrade already. From what I hear (from Fred) it is money well spent. If this was an option when I had my Pacific, I would have gone to 2 and stopped. End game. The PAC is DHT, the Horizon is not. Some consider the 46 as the best option. I never had any to try. I can say the EML 45 globe mesh are pretty special in a Thomas Mayer amp and the Pacific. But rare unobtainium now. But my everyday Pacific tubes were KR RK PX25. I ran these in my amps too, which is kind of funny.

....I try Real Hard to avoid 300 ib lovers.....

Oh.....

;)

The Blackbird amps are running the 300b tubes at about 400V B+ (plate - cathode voltage), and just a wee bit under 80 mA. About 31.5 watts at idle. They sound wonderful and should last a very long time. The tubes each have their own independent regulated filament supply and are right at 5 volts. I have measured a lot of them and it is always 4.99 - 5.01 volts. All the supplies are regulated so the tubes stay at that operating point. It seems to be a sweet spot for the 300b tubes, although I suspect that dialing the operating point up a bit for the Euro super tubes would be an option. The supplies are run very conservatively and could easily handle the extra current.

One of the maddening things about the original Karna amplifier was sonic variability. Some days, it would be a glimpse of Heaven, and other days, nothing special. It was always extremely transparent ... that’s the nature of the circuit ... but the tuning came and went. Most of the time it was quite good, but every now and then, it was extraordinary.

By contrast, SET amps are usually consistent, any time of day, due to massive 2nd harmonic masking all the high-order harmonics. Tuning a SET is straightforward ... which parts complement the dominant 2nd harmonic most gracefully.

One of my experiments was bringing out the filament circuits on a separate power socket. I bought the Audio-GD AC regenerator, and powered the filaments with that. Sure enough, the variability went away, and I discovered quite small variations in filament power had a big effect on the sound, overwhelming any other tuning decision, including tube swaps. But the Audio-GD liked to run its fans, despite the easy load.

So I was open to Don’s approach of regulating everything, using the proprietary regulators he’d been using so successfully on his 6L6 and KT88 amps. Sure, why not? I’d already been splitting the high voltage B+ supplies between input+driver and output section (to prevent crossmodulation between sections), and using high-quality regulators for a balanced drive for the filaments and heaters made a lot of sense.

(I should mention regulating filamentary tubes is not trivial, and the usual 3-pin low-voltage regulators introduce unacceptable colorations. Filament and cathode nodes are extremely sensitive to coloration, and balanced discrete circuits are required.)

Sure enough, variability gone, vanished, like the morning mist. No change in sonics depending on the time of day. No annoying and objectionable regulator coloration, which is the bane of high-end audio ... that obnoxious grainy transistor sound, coming out of an otherwise good tube amplifier. Not a trace of that, thankfully. Reliable, too, which goes with good regulator design.

This alone justified re-naming the amplifier. I suggested Blackbird (because Red-Winged Blackbirds are a common sight in Colorado), and to my surprise, the name appeared in the Pacific Audio Festival show guide. So Blackbird it is.