Nicely done! I should have you audio shop for me. A wise man once said “yeah the waiting is the hardest part.” Do you have an additional interconnect to run from the Yammy’s preout to the Hegel’s HT bypass?
Emphasis on stereo but need a complete solution.
So I started trying to fix my stereo output from apple music and have ended up realizing I need to replace the middle of my system. I only have two real sources of audio video, Firestick and a streaming music service.
For tv/movies, I don’t care all that much. Mostly watch baseball, nice if movie sound is decent. Only source is Firestick 4K
For stereo, I do care. I want the Totems driven as well as possible. Source Tidal, Qubuz, Apple???
I have a 30 year old NAD 2 channel 2100 amp- I could use for the Totems but willing to replace.
Also have Yamaha – RX-V375 Receiver which I could use for the surrounds. I don't want it in the signal path to the mains (Totems)
So I care most about the DAC, Preamp, and 2 of the 5.1 channels of the amp(s)
Would rather have the amp(s) separate from the digital stuff.
I used to know audio but stopped paying much attention years ago and somewhat confused by the digital side. I am a programmer but just don’t keep up with audio formats much.
Cost is definitely a factor. Used stuff is ok with me and usually more cost effective. Would like to stay under 3k-ish.
I think I’m breaking the problem down correctly but chime in if not. Mainly just want to figure out how to break out the components.
What do I put in the middle where it says ***(What goes here???
Existing system:
Video source:FireStick 4k ->
TV: 4K HDMI Input -> Sony 85" Class X90CL Series 4K -> 4k HDMI output ->
***(What goes here??? Decode HDMI, Streams Tidal, preamp, amp) ->
Mains: Totem Winds for left/ right mains - 80-250 watt, 4 ohms, 87 dB sensitivity, 24-21 khz +-3db
Surrounds: Energy center, rears -No specs, decent, not very important to me
Active Sub (maybe removed if the Winds can handle the lows for movies, don’t need sub for music)
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@moverton99 , the one higher up from the RX-A2A....i.e., the RX-A4A is what you may need with preouts for all channels. It is on accessories4less for $799, full price is usually around 1400.
Fidelity levels will improve depending on how hifi of a power amplifier you will connect to those preouts, especially the front stage (front left, center, front right). Here’s a decent power amp candidate with 120 W/channel class AB, all channels driven, which should make your speakers behave...
Other things you could consider doing for your Yamaha receiver/processor... - Read the manual cover to cover - Turn off bluetooth and wifi. Don’t bother with the antenna. - Hardwire/Connect with a ethernet cable, use a IFI ethernet filter before plugging in the ethernet cable. - Use a Audioquest power conditioner such as the Audioquest Powerquest 505 or 707. Plug your processor, amp, router, etc into it on designated outlets. - If you are a cable believer, use Audioquest power cables, speaker cables and ethernet cables (even the fairly affordable base models should be fine).
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- 23 posts total