Living With A Class A Tube Amp

@atmasphere  , thank you for the explanation--that is interesting and makes me a better informed hobbyist.  

"Pure Class A" was a direct quote from the owner's manual, so that is all I know about it, as my ability to comprehend electrical theory is limited.

I always thought the room got warmer when I used to crank it way up, but that typed, these days I listen at low to moderate levels, and after a couple of hours, if I put the palm of my hand on one of the transformers, it is hot enough to make me remove it (my hand) fairly quickly.  And, after a few hours of listening at low to moderate levels the room still gets warm.  So I do not know for sure that  making it scream had it running hotter or not--I just felt that it must be; and I also do not know which category of Class A Cary was referring to by "Pure Class A"; until now, I was not aware of the different categories.

If it makes a difference as to how hot it gets, these days I always run it in triode.

@immatthewj FWIW, 'pure class A' is a marketing phrase. As far as engineering goes, a circuit is either class A or its not. None of this 'enriched class A' stuff you often see (such amps are class AB). In your case my guess is class A1.

@immatthewj FWIW, 'pure class A' is a marketing phrase. As far as engineering goes, a circuit is either class A or its not. None of this 'enriched class A' stuff you often see (such amps are class AB). In your case my guess is class A1.

I thought after I read your postings on the different categories of Class  A that "pure Class A" probably was the manufacturer romanticizing the owner's manual.  Thanks for the info. 

Any Rogers owners out there want to chime in?

One of the best ways to leverage class A: 10 watts or less of single ended triode with a speaker of 97db or greater sensitivity.  Minimal heat, minimal warmup time, long tube life, no need to bias tubes.