Those magical days when the HVAC is off


I'm reminded these last few days when after 90 days straight with the AC running, the weather broke and the temps dropped, and with no AC running (or likewise in winter when no heat is cranking) my rig sounds easily 20% better - like I had added a new component- more clarity, overtones/timbre, sparkle - the standard sonic improvement adjectives - so how does one accomplish this year 'round? Which power related component is the one that allows your audio rig to operate unimpeded by air conditioning, the furnace, an overloaded electrical grid? I have separate dedicated lines to my components, but my rig really flows in a magical way when these climate conditioning appliances are not running. Is it power conditioning, or power regeneration that could possibly allow me to enjoy this increased audio performance more frequently or permanently? Any personal experiences of successfully solving this dilemma would be welcomed. Cheers, and thank you in advance.

ostemo8

As a lighthearted note regarding home music rooms and protecting against external noise, even the best plans go awry. I had carefully reviewed the blueprints being used by the prime and subcontractor team. Since the architectural design, construction, and amenities were largely inflexible and I was unable to be on site, I was compelled to restrict my personal inspection to designated phases. The bottom line is that the construction manager took it upon himself to change location of attic and wall access points, air ducts, and electrical power outlets. He also decided it would be easier to locate the bi-level HVAC unit adjacent to the only long wall and place the air compressor right under the listening room window. He also informed me that the parent construction company did not authorize glue and screw for upstairs composite flooring and only used nail guns. And by the way, the high grade padding and bur-bur carpeting was no longer available, since negotiations with their supplier had broken down. [NOTE: The cautionary statement: "We reserve the right to change specifications and construction materials... " is there for a reason.]

So my wife and I moved into our new "dream" home in Summerville, SC. Shortly thereafter, I noticed a high level of humidity and musty odor in the upstairs music and collectibles room. "Whoops!" The window and room vent exhaust contractors forgot to seal the units and the incessant rain and humidity quickly saturated the wall and ceiling board. And the upstairs floor creaked and squeaked with every step, which the contractor remedied by pulling up the cheap pad and carpeting and yanking out the nails with a crowbar.

However, there is good news. When the house was hit by lightning, the strike was largely diffused by running to ground. Unfortunately, I had failed to unplug my audio equipment from the wall and the amps went into protective mode. But that's another story.         wink

Three years ago we purchased a 30+ year-old, custom-built home.  Last month we replaced the windows - with 'unbalanced-pane' windows. These unbalance windows have a 2mm pane of glass on the exterior-side and a 3 mm pane of glass on the interior-side.

Our home is MUCH QUIETER now.  Unfortunately, new windows cost as much as a high-end component (or even system).  Still, if you need or want to have new windows installed, they can significantly reduce the ambient-noise floor.  I hope the 'unbalanced pane' tip is helpful to those considering a renovation.

@gdaddy1 

You mentioned the mini splits that PS Audio has in their listening rooms.  Paul hates them and turns them off when giving demonstrations.  We just added a room to our house and put in a highly recommended Mitsubishi heat pump. On its regular settings, it’s pretty quiet, but it’s still loud enough that I would still turn it off during a listening session.  However, it does have a whisper mode and I can’t hear it when standing in the doorway.

To the OP..make sure ( if possible  ) those “ multiple dedicated lines “ are on tge same phase of the panel ANd opposite the big motor loads…

A high end Mitsubishi mini split is 42 db…. 

Don't think it's a power issue at all, but noise floor issue.  In the cooler mornings, I open all the windows, and doors. Trying to air out the house to cool it down for the hotter days. With my from door open, I have to turn up my system, with the door closed I turn it down to get the same sound level to my ears. I live on a dead end street, with almost no ambient noise. 

In my HT room, the HVAC is on the other side of the wall, with a big air return in the ceiling. In there, the HVAC does affect the sound, but as above, it's a noise floor issue, and not a power issue. 

Good call out, with adding damping material to the heater ducts. Think I'll give that a try.