15 amp circuit VS. 20 amp Circuit

Check the wire on the existing circuit. If you have 12 awg, replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp. If you have 14 awg, do not upgrade the breaker. Remember, many homes have 20 amp breakers but use 15 amp receptacles in series. 10 awg wire is usually rated up to 30 amps. However, if you have a long run, you can use 10 awg for the 20 amp circuit. If you’re running a home run for each receptacle, use 20 amp receptacles. Hubbell makes high quality hospital grade receptacles worth consideration. Hope this helps. 

I'd personally have run 3 dedicated lines in my new listening room, 2 for amps and 1 for signal components; but I am NOT an electrician.....and will only be running one amp at a time.

As others have mentioned, used audiophile receptacles. There are lots of good choices, but I can recommend: Furutech GTX-D (G - Gold), Furutech GTX-D (R - Rhodium), Oyaide R-1 (NOT the SWX series), and for cost conscious Acme Audio Labs Silver cryogenic with CFC coating (Revolution Audio). Check around on pricing, the Furutechs and Oyaide R-1.....prices can vary by about 30% depending on where you buy them.

Most responses are correct. The most important factor is to dedicate the power supply run to your audio console; i.e., run a 12/2 cable (with ground) directly from your power entry panel in your home/apt. to a dedicated outlet for your audio gear. Using that outlet to then feed a surge protected and individually filtered multi outlet strip to feed each component.  This will be a "quiet" feed with no influence on that direct circuit, and also reduces/eliminates ground loops within your system. Of course there will be some voltage drops/spikes/noise at the AC panel from refer's, blowers, AC, etc. but that will be somewhat attenuated by the filtering of the strip. If you really want to get into high performance, low noise power distribution there are books describing how to set up home/commercial recording studios, specifically dealing with power distribution. BTW, standard OTS electrical components and wire are fine. Save your money for your audio gear.

FYI am an electrical engineer by trade, mostly designing power distribution for mobile and marine applications, but many of the principles' remain constant for home/commercial applications.

The old-fashioned way would be to look up how much amperage is used for each component and then add up the total. The specs should be in the owner’s manual and/or the back plate. The amperage will increase for the amps during playback - so select the maximum draw as per the owner’s manual.

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Watts = Amperage x Voltage. This formula will help figure out the amperage if it’s not listed. How’s your algebra?

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- Ideally, from an electrical perspective, the same amount of amperage should be on each separate circuit - to keep the legs (phases) balanced. It’s highly unlikely that anybody actually does this in their home - and it’s not dangerous with a good utility panel installed. Balanced phases are used primarily in industrial/commercial installations. (Balanced phases vs Balanced power are two completely different applications.)

- Ideally, from an audio perspective, the digital components should be on a separate circuit than the analog components. Or they can be separated via a power conditioner if a circuit is to be shared.

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meaning drawing current from one outlet will drain the other two.

It doesn’t work that way. Neither the current (amperage) - nor the voltage - will be affected as long as the load is under the circuit rating. If the load is over the rating, the voltage may reduce and the wire itself will get warm to hot - depending on the load. The circuit breaker should trip if the load the load is too high - thus preventing any electrical fires.

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Tempest in a tea cup. The power draw (E x I) from an average home audio system is negligible, unless you're running quad Class A mono blocks at 100 wpc each to supplement your home heating system. Even 200/300 wpc class AB amps average less than 5 amps , and 15 amp circuits will handle this even added to preamp, DAC, PC, Streamer, Turntable, etc. It's clean power you're after, and no noise (ground) loops. Also, well designed audio gear will have power supplies that are deigned to operate in real world conditions, so again spending a fortune on cables/outlets, magic fuses is a waste of capital.