What Power Amplifier Should I Buy?


I am looking to increase my system power. I currently am using a Bryston 2.5B cubed, which is specified at 135 Watts/CH. I am using Revel f208 speakers crossed over at 120 Hz to a 15" HSU sub. The f208 speakers have 88.5 dB sensitivity (Amir measured 88-89dB SPL at 1W into 8 ohms). I sit about 7.5 feet away from the speakers and listen up to 92 dB SPL, but mostly stay between 80-90 dB SPL at my listenin g location.

I have not had power issues. I've never seen a clipping light. I just want more oomph. I've never had a power amp with more power than the 2.5B cubed.

My budget is about $5K. I have been looking at some used 4b cubed amps.

My preamp is a vintage ML No. 38s. Digital from Bryston BDP-3/BDA-3 combo. Analog using Koetsu RS and Shelter 901 cartridges into an SUT (20x) followed by a very vintage Paragon System E used as a phono preamp (I have fully repaired this preamp, particularly the power supply).

I like the sound of the 2.5B cubed. I had a Cary 120 tube amp for some time, but grew tired of the heat and the continuous maintenance, including the insane prices for tubes. I did not experince that great "tube sound" that others rave about. I sold the Cary and went back to the 2.5B cubed.

Will the 4B cubed disappoint?

What other amps should I consifder, new or used?

Thanks for your help!

 

128x128Ag insider logo xs@2xkevemaher

My guess is that the dbx equalizer and sublime crossover have more to do with the lack of dynamics than anything else. These are both low cost devices with inexpensive opamps. In the case of the equalizer, you have dozens of opamps and cheap slider pots that you are running the signal through. 

@jaytor Yeah, I have always had concerns about the EQ. But some form of EQ is needed to help tame some of the FR variations from the room.

I have traps which are very effective. I don't need more, except for the floor to ceiling mode. But the "rules" prevent me from doing that. I have worked very hard at positioning the speakers and the sub to get the best FR, but there are still +/- 6 dB variations in the bass. I am restricted to near the present locations. I have tried a miniDSP Flex. It doesn't affect the time domain at all and is barely better than the analog EQ. I ditched that. And I enjoy the idea that I have an all analog signal path (except for the CD/DVD and music files).

So the dBx EQ is a somewhat "necessary" evil. I could live without it, but the engineer in me strives to have as perfect FR and TR (Temporal Response) as I can manage to obtain.

The XO does a very good job, far better than the Rane I once used. I don't like the idea of running the f208s full range and band limiting the woofer. However I haven't tried this in a while. Might be worth a shot.

Are you aware of any reviews on the Sublime XO?

Very helpful advice. Thanks.

@kevemaher - I suspect the crossover is not the biggest issue. I actually own a Sublime K235 (their newer model) and it seems pretty good although I don't currently have in my system. The graphic equalizer has many more lower-quality op-amps and capacitors in the signal path, so I think this is probably the bigger issue. 

If you really need equalization, I'd suggest looking for a decent DSP preamp, such as the Anthem STR or DEQX Pre-4.

Another option is the Danville Signal DSP Nexus. This isn't quite as fancy from a case-work perspective, and the software is quite complex (but there is good support), but the sound quality is pretty good using the latest AKM DACs. I also have a DSP Nexus 2/8 that I've been playing around with. 

And then there are the Trinnov systems although I don't know if their products support a phono preamp or even analog input.

After all this discussion of power, I bought a Bryston BP-17 cubed preamp. I'll get it next week. This discussion has convinced me that I have enough power from my power amp. So I decided to see if the much newer BP-17-3 can outperform the aged Levinson #38s. I hope so.