Can you do anything to make power tubes last longer ?

@whart made a couple of points that I agree with. I check the bias frequently. I don’t have to use a fluke meter as my amp has meters for voltage and current for both the driver tubes and the output tubes. My amp is very stable but I have been rolling tubes a lot lately.

I also agree that there is no need to use white gloves. I’ll admit I’m an outdoor guy who doesn’t use lotion so my skin tends to be dry. but most tubes run cool enough that a little skin oil it isn’t a problem.

Thinking about this thread for the last day, I think the biggest factor in tube failure is running them at the wrong voltage or current. Most amps don’t have as much adjustability as mine. I’ve had amps with no adjustability (cathode bias) and they are designed to be easy on tubes--no action required.

I had a Decware ZMA and it had a great biasing system that I really enjoyed. it accommodates a lot of tubes and the bias current for each tube can be different. to calculate the bias current for a particular tube, look up the maximum plate dissipation on the tube data sheet (watts). Measure the B+ voltage of your amp. The best way is to use some insulated probes clipped to the correct pins (tube slightly elevated) running out to a volt meter. Make sure you don’t create a short to the chassis, turn your amp on, write down the voltage, turn your amp off and remove the probes. This number is important to know. Sometimes OEMs will provide it.

Divide your plate dissipation (watts) by B+ voltage (Volts) will give you amps. You’ll have a decimal. Multiply by 1000 to get milliamps. Now decide how hard you want to drive your tubes--usually a number between 60% and 80%- and multiply that times your current and that is where you set the bias. I have found recommended bias numbers well above what I calculated. I have also know guys who ran their bias purposely higher than recommended because they thought it sounded better. I think this is a myth, the "higher must be better" mentality.

If you have auto bias, you’re out of luck. I’ll never buy an amp with autobias.

Jerry

I also agree that there is no need to use white gloves. I’ll admit I’m an outdoor guy who doesn’t use lotion so my skin tends to be dry. but most tubes run cool enough that a little skin oil it isn’t a problem.

Agree on the gloves point. Actually, this is something that the engineer in me screams "you're solving the WRONG problem!" about. There is NO risk to tubes from skin oils. Audio tubes are nothing like those awful halogen bulbs from the 1990s. The biggest risk to a tube is DROPPING it. And guess what - those cheesy, cheap white cotton gloves are generally very slick compared to a natural grip. So while purporting to protect tubes from (harmless) oils, they actually introduce a REAL risk to your tube handling. Ugh. These gloves should all be burned. 

If you have auto bias, you’re out of luck. I’ll never buy an amp with autobias.

While I do love the ability to manually adjust each tube bias point, the VAC iQ auto-bias system has been very, very good in my use and sounds excellent. 

I'd never own an amp with cathode (auto) bias either.  

Also, I don't know what "regulate voltage" means, but I do know that the balanced power supply that I use makes exactly 120 volts.

As Roger Modjeski well understood, the SOE safe operating envelope for a specific tube is not a few points… hence a deeper understanding of both amplifier design with a dual focus on reliability and sonic engineering… the now ancient RCA SOE diagrams and tables yield much for those who do not think only in terms of points.. see RM-10 for imo a phd “ amp camp “ level demonstration of what is possible in terms of output, reliability and sonics.. RAM tubes and the testing…few if any can do contribute significantly as well… RIP… i miss him, could hardly wish for a better mentor, sensei, spirit guide…

i find the deep dish pizza to be he$$ on the white gloves….